Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light 
to your vintage motorcycle

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Assembly instructions System 70 91 999 WW

Version 14.10.2008 

If you can install and time a stock ignition and possess basic mechanical skills, you can install a Powerdynamo!
If you never have worked on your ignition, better have it done by someone who knows.

Powerdynamo can not monitor the compliance to those instructions, nor the conditions and methods of installation, operation, usage and maintenance of the system. Improper installation may result in damage to property and possibly even bodily injury. Therefore we assume no responsibility for loss, damage or cost which result from, or are in any way related to, incorrect installation, improper operation, or incorrect use and maintenance. We reserve the right to make changes to the product, technical data or assembly and operating instructions without prior notice. 



Please read these instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle
Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Do not cut off wires. This leads to a loss of reverse polarity protection and often results in damage to electronics. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. Wrong ignition settings may damage your engine and even hurt you during kickstart (violent kickbacks). Be careful during the first test runs. If needed change settings to safer values (less advance). During assembly check carefully that the rotor (flywheel) does not touch the stator coils or anything else, which may happen due to various circumstances and lead to severe damage.
Designated use
This system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator & ignition systems in vintage and classic motorcycles whose engine characteristics have not been modified aftermarket. This system is not a tuning system and it will not bring significant increases in engine output. It does however significantly enhance roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging stock systems, increased reliability. As our system does not tamper with engine characteristics it does not increase emission of gaseous pollutants and noise. In most cases emission of pollutants should even be reduced due to better combustion. If used as designated the system therefore will not normally infringe the existing legal status of the motorcycle (this statement is valid for Germany, for other countries, please check locally against your road licensing regulations). This system is not suitable for use in competition events. If used other than the designated way, warranty will be voided and it might well be that you do not obtain the desired results or, worst you loose legal roadworthiness.

The charging system is only suitable for use with rechargable 12V (6V systems 6V) lead-acid batteries with  liquide electrolyte or sealed lead-acid batteries, AGM, Gel. It is not suitable for use with nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal-hydride, lithium-ion or any other types of recharchable or non rechargable batteries.

This is a replacement system and not a copy of the stock material. The parts in this system therefore look different and might fit differently (notably ignition coil and regulator) requiring some adaptation by you.

During assembly imperatively start with assy of engine based parts to see that those really fit before you start fitting the external parts. In many cases customers assemble those first and thereby often modify them in breach of warranty which renders them unfit for renewed sale. Replacing old ignition systems is not a matter of taking something from a supermarket shelf as there have been very many types, versions and possibly unknown aftermarket modifications which harbour plenty of room for error.
Our systems are NOT tested for use with third party electronic devices (such as GPS, mobile phones, LED lighting etc)and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing  electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our information for suitable solutions. Possibly existing safety switches and electronic valve controls are not supported. It might be that your motorcycle was originally equipped with an ignition that did limit top speed for legal reasons. The new system does not have such a facility, so check your legal situation beforehand.
If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle, possibly even lead to bodily harm.
Before you order a system, please check whether a puller tool  for the new rotor is included in the kit. If not, better order it at the same time. You might want to order light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc.
Never use anything other than  the recommended puller tool to pull the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of other  tools or methods is not covered by warranty.
The rotor is sensible to blows (including during transport). Before assembly, please always check for damage (on rotor without magnet plastification try to push the magnets aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor solely by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During engine run the damage would be considerable. Before placing the rotor onto the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected any metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
To pull the old rotor, you will need a puller tool M10x90 (Teil Nr. 89 99 026).
To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00 -Not provided!-).

Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

You should have received those parts!

Please pay attention:
The sensor is not screwed tight on the ground plate, it has to be adjusted by yourself.

The stator is not screwed tight on the ground plate. When you mount the ground plate on the crank case, you have to remove the stator. 

Make sure your AWO rests securely on her stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine.

Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that should you be installing a 12 volt system, you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without.  You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones however in that case too. The horn may stay at 6 volts. For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery.

Technical it is possible to drive your bike without the battery. But consult your local road traffic regulators.

At first replace the old parts 

Loose the 5 hex screws of the generator cover and take it off. Disconnect the 3 cables (normally a black one from the magneto, a red and a white one from the dynamo) and remove those parts.

Pull off the old rotor with the puller tool (pay attention: the holding screw has a couter-clockwise tap, so you have to screw clockwise for pull off).

Remove all 6 Volt bulbs from the head lights, speedometer and tail lights. The horn may stay.

Look in the open lamp casing for the harness (3 wires are coming from the motor to the ignition lock). It is shown in the picture as a, c and e. Replace that harness complete.

Now you have to connect the provided short orange (mark 1) and blue/white (mark 2) cable pieces (that's only markers).

The pictured cables b and d were gone to the old regulator. You will need them no more. You can disconnect and insulate them.

Remove the complete original harness from the AWO, it will be replaced by new material.

If there is a regulator in the battery case, remove it too.

At next you have to lead the new engine harness (with the side with the pre-assembled plugs) through the motor case from the outside to the inside of the motor (push the plugs one after another through). Screw the ignition cable in the new ignition coil, pull over the grommet and lead the cable in the motor too. The ignition coil unit hang loose on the cables, it's not screwed down.

Then you have to installate the plugs on the harness. It is now easier - the unit is not screwed down.

Take a little time for that, rather check it 3 times,

  • in the case of the correct slot, 
  • also to fasten the plugs tight without damaging the insulation.
  • Please take care for intact insulation of the plugs and cables
  • ATTENTION: At older versions are any plugs connected intern, do not change connections.
  • white (and brown) is electrical ground
  • red comes from the ignition pole of the generator
  • yellow is the unprocessed sensor impulse
  • blue/white is the processed impulse from the regulator.
    (Don't mix it up with the blue/red kill switch cable)
  • black is the AC drive from the generator

Put a plug on the yellow cable with the pin. Then connect it with the counterpart from the sensor (a yellow cable too).

Now you have to put a plug on the pin of the blue/red cable. Plug it together with the blue/white cable from the ignition coil. It is the kill switch cable.

Pay attention, don't damage the hanging loose parts: the both unit plates with its assembled parts and the cables with its plugs.

Then you have to mount the ignition coil unit.

Lay the 0-ring in the opening about the cam shaft (there was the original one too). Lay on the paper seal and put on the cover plate with the ignition coil. Screw it on with the 2 screws M6x20. Screw it not tight, so you can shift the plate (if required).

Please note: Leave the pre-assembled plug connection of the ignition plate as they are. There is no matter to plug-off them. You risk a mal-connection, loose plugs or even tear-off cables. If you really need to pull out a plug, use a flat-pliers and handle the plug - not the cable!!

The new stator unit is pre-assembled, so that its construction is easier to recognise. For the mounting it has to be partly disassembled.

Pay attention: Do not damage the paint insulation of the coils.

Loose the 3 hex screws, they hold the stator on the ground plate. Pull the stator in that way from the plate, so you can handle the 2 mounting holes below.

Put the pre-assembled stator plate (steel ring, aluminium plate and sensor) instead of the generator in the crank case. The sensor shows to the ground and the cable shows left upwards to the terminal of the ignition coil plate (if you look from the front on the unit).

Screw down the ground plate (steel ring and inner aluminium plate) on the crank case with the 2 countersunk screws M6x30. The ignition coil unit hang loose on the cables further on.

Now you have to replace the stator on the ground plate. Take care, that no cable is pinched. The coil has to be fitting good on the ground plate - nearly "hearable engage". If is it ain't so, and the coil fits "soft" on the ground plate, is a cable in the way and there is a risk of damaging by contact of the rotor. Screw down the stator with the 3 hex srews M6x30. 

Now pull carefully the ht-cable and the harness (6 cables) afar out of the case, as they don't trouble the rotor.

Now you can adjust the ignition coil unit with the oblong holes (if required) and tighten the both screws. Do not forget it!

Remove the spark plugs. Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the statorbase.
Put the new rotor handtight on the crank shaft for turning the shaft. Bring the piston into TDC. At first with the kickstarter (turning by hand) an then, for the fine adjustment, with the new rotor. You have to see the TDC marker (not the marker for the ignition point) concentric in the spy hole.
Take the rotor carefully off again without changing the crank's position. Reset it onto the crank in such a way that the little red marker (made by us) aligns with the left edge of the sensor bottom. In that position fasten the rotor carefully (Please don't forget to use the washer).

At this time you have to adjust the gap of 0.4mm between sensor and protrusion. Turn the rotor until the nose aligns to the sensor. Loose the holding screws of the sensor and adjust the gap by shifting the sensor.

Don't forget to tighten the screws (also as the gap is O.K. right from the start), we don't tighten fast the screws during the preassembly!

Now you have to installate the extern parts (rectifier/regulator and the controller).

Both parts could be mounted left of the battery (here the advance unit below of the regulator/rectifier).

Who wants to drive without battery, has space enough to mount it in an empty battery case, the harness is made for that (see our offer).

Take a look to the little blue dip-switch block at the upper flat side of the black ignition advance unit. There are 4 little switches, they are pre-positioned by us. They select the correct ignition advance curve. Please don't change the switch position and check it after the work. All switches has to be OFF (must shown to the digit). Otherwise your system will not (or not really) function.

Now you have to lay the harness on the frame.

Note the enclosed cable guide.

The phote will be enlarged by clicking on it.

For a bigger picture (105KB) click here.

Fasten the new harness at first loosely at the frame and connect the several cables to the corresponding electrically components (e.g. ignition lock, tail light etc).

Ignition lock cables:
In the lamp casing you have to change the cable markers (hopefully you have they installed) against the cables of the same colour.
  • orange (earlier green) for the ignition control to pin 61
  • blue/white (earlier blue/red) for the kill switch to pin 2

Regulator cables:
The green cable get a wire-end-terminal and a plastic plug. Connect it with the single green/red cable from the regulator (ignition control). If you drive without a battery , that cable remains idle.

Seen from the rear (cable) side
The plastic plug (6 terminals):
  • The both black cables: It's equally which black cable goes to which black position, it's the AC connection to the generator.
  • The red and the brown cables: It's the DC connection from the generator.
    Take care:
    Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!
  • The red/green (ignition control) cable goes to pin 61 of the main switch
You will have to insert the wire-end-terminals into the plastic plug, paying attention to their position there
  • the both black to black
  • red to red
  • brown to brown
If you like to drive without battery, connect the brown cable to the metal frame (solid ground). At best to this place, where earlier the negative battery pole was connected. The red cable will be connected with the cable, that earlier goes from the positive battery pole to the ignition lock.

If you like to drive with the battery, connect the brown cable with the negative and the red cable with the positive pole of the battery. These are additional connections. Don't extract the original battery (ht) cables, your system will have no power.


Important safety and operating information


Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
The timing marks on the material are for general guidance only during first installation. Please check after assembly by suitable means (stroboscope) that settings are correct to prevent damage to the engine or possibly even your health. You alone are responsible for the installation and the correctness of settings.


Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
Never pull sparkplug caps when engine is running. Wash your vehicle only with engine at standstill and ignition off.


Should you have received in the kit HT cables with a fixed rubber boot(which does not contain a resistor) you might have to use spark plugs with an inbuilt resistor (or replace the cap with one containing a resistor) to comply with your local laws.


After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.


Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse apply changes to it.
Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburetor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburetor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue (or blue/white) cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, make sure there is a good electrical connection between frame and engine block.
In case of troubles, please consult our Knowledge Base first before you send off the material to us for checking


The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts comparatively little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (which however makes it highly visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore is needle thin focused in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kick-start operated speeds and not by pushing the kick-lever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).


Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. Also with such open exits long and dangerous sparks may fly all over the coil.


Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off. The same is true for soldering. Before touching electronics disconnect the soldering iron from mains! Never use copper putty on spark plugs.


Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour jumps between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.


When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.


Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which promise to increase spark.


It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.


Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!


Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.


Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system.
Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!