Powerdynamo assembly instruction for 6V BMW R50,R50S,R60,R51/3,R67,R68,R69,R69S

If you can install and time a stock ignition and possess basic mechanical skills, you can install a Powerdynamo! If you never have worked on your ignition, better have it done by someone who knows.
Powerdynamo can not monitor the compliance to those instructions, nor the conditions and methods of installation, operation, usage and maintenance of the system. Improper installation may result in damage to property and possibly even bodily injury. Therefore we assume no responsibility for loss, damage or cost which result from, or are in any way related to, incorrect installation, improper operation, or incorrect use and maintenance. We reserve the right to make changes to the product, technical data or assembly and operating instructions without prior notice.
IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Do not cut off wires. This leads to a loss of reverse polarity protection and often results in damage to electronics. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. Wrong ignition settings may damage your engine and even hurt you during kickstart (violent kickbacks). Be careful during the first test runs. If needed change settings to safer values (less advance). During assembly check carefully that the rotor (flywheel) does not touch the stator coils or anything else, which may happen due to various circumstances and lead to severe damage.
	Designated use This system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator & ignition systems in vintage and classic motorcycles whose engine characteristics have not been modified aftermarket. This system is not a tuning system and it will not bring significant increases in engine output. It does however significantly enhance roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging stock systems, increased reliability. As our system does not tamper with engine characteristics it does not increase emission of gaseous pollutants and noise. In most cases emission of pollutants should even be reduced due to better combustion. If used as designated the system therefore will not normally infringe the existing legal status of the motorcycle (this statement is valid for Germany, for other countries, please check locally against your road licensing regulations). This system is not suitable for use in competition events. If used other than the designated way, warranty will be voided and it might well be that you do not obtain the desired results or, worst you loose legal roadworthiness. The charging system is only suitable for use with rechargable 12V (6V systems 6V) lead-acid batteries with liquide electrolyte or sealed lead-acid batteries, AGM, Gel. It is not suitable for use with nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal-hydride, lithium-ion or any other types of recharchable or non rechargable batteries. This is a replacement system and not a copy of the stock material. The parts in this system therefore look different and might fit differently (notably ignition coil and regulator) requiring some adaptation by you.
	During assembly imperatively start with assy of engine based parts to see that those really fit before you start fitting the external parts. In many cases customers assemble those first and thereby often modify them in breach of warranty which renders them unfit for renewed sale. Replacing old ignition systems is not a matter of taking something from a supermarket shelf as there have been very many types, versions and possibly unknown aftermarket modifications which harbour plenty of room for error.
	Our systems are NOT tested for use with third party electronic devices (such as GPS, mobile phones, LED lighting etc)and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our information for suitable solutions. Possibly existing safety switches and electronic valve controls are not supported. It might be that your motorcycle was originally equipped with an ignition that did limit top speed for legal reasons. The new system does not have such a facility, so check your legal situation beforehand.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle, possibly even lead to bodily harm.
	Before you order a system, please check whether a puller tool for the new rotor is included in the kit. If not, better order it at the same time. You might want to order light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than the recommended puller tool to pull the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of other tools or methods is not covered by warranty.
	The rotor is sensible to blows (including during transport). Before assembly, please always check for damage (on rotor without magnet plastification try to push the magnets aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor solely by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During engine run the damage would be considerable. Before placing the rotor onto the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected any metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.
	If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz

	You should have received those parts: stator unit rotor holder assembly for pick up rotor with cam for pick up holder plate with advance unit and ignition coil regulator HT cable and harness wire binder
Please note that the stator coil is only loosely fixed to the plate as you will have to lift it off a little for assembly. Further note that the sensor is only loosely fixed, as you will have to set it to correct gap. The supplied mounting plate for the new ignition coil and advance unit and the attached clamps do not fit on any BMW frame. It must be modified or replaced in individual cases.
	To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1,25 (part-no.: 99 99 799 00 -Not provided!-). Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.
	To disengage your old rotor, you will need a puller screw M8x90 (part-no.: 70 80 899 90 -Not provided!-).

Notes on wiring: Experience shows that over time nearly every motorcycle experiences changes to it's wiring. Additionally, most wires may have lost their original colours. For your reference we provide the original wiring diagrams of BMW 51/3 to 67 and R50/R60 on our website.

Make sure your motorcycle rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the front of the engine. You will have to turn the front wheel from time to time for better access. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will install a 12 volts system, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without. For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts. Drain your petrol tank into a safe canister. Make sure you do not spill petrol. Refrain from smoking. Disconnect the connecting tube under the petrol (gas) tank and take the tank off. Put it into a safe place for the duration of the works.

	Unscrew the generator cover and take it off. Disconnect the wires from the old generator, regulator and magneto. At the generator there should typically be: one blue wire at generator terminal 61 (which runs to the charge light), one heavy red (might also be black) wire at generator terminal 30 (which runs to the battery plus) one heavy red (might also be black) wire at generator terminal 51 (which runs to the headlights main switch) one heavy brown wire (ground) which is attached to the ground terminal next to the negative (-) brush At the magneto unit you should have a red/black wire running to the ignition switches OFF position.

	Use a hex key (allan wrench) 5mm and remove the two screws retaining the field of the generator to the engine casing. Remove the field. You might need to gently bump its side with a rubber hammer to disengage it. Use a hex key 6mm and remove the screw that retains the advance unit and the magnetic rotor on the nose of the camshaft. To do that, you will have to hold the generators rotor with your hand using a piece of cloth to avoid injury. Take the centrifugal advance unit off. Now remove the 2 nuts (spanner 10) which hold the magnet unit and take the part off the engine casing. Use again the hex key 6mm and remove the screw that retains the rotor on the nose of the crankshaft. In place of the now removed holder screw install the BMW rotor puller and screw it in till the rotor pops off (again, you will have to hold the rotor with your hand, and you might well have to use a little force on the puller). Lastly, pop the magnetic rotor off the camshaft, using the same puller and the same method already used for the rotor of the generator.

Rewire as follows:

the blue wire at generator terminal 61 (which runs to the charge light), gets connected to the red/green of the new regulator (unless you want to drive without battery, in that case do not connect, leave insulated idle) one heavy red (might also be black) wire at generator terminal 30 (which runs to the battery plus) is connected (bridge) to the heavy red running formerly to terminal 51 of the stock dynamo (see next item). one heavy red (might also be black) wire at generator terminal 51 (which runs to the headlights main switch) is connected (bridge) to the heavy red running formerly to terminal 30 (see item above) one heavy brown wire (ground) which is attached to the ground terminal next to the negative (-) brush secure to some other ground point Integration between the original general electric system (lighting, horn etc.) and the new system is at the battery (or should you drive without at the wires normally running to the battery).

	Check the diameter of the sealing stud on the original magneto rotor. You normally have here 25mm. On R68 and some R69 however that is 28mm.
	Should you find 28mm there, you will have to replace the existing oil seal 28mm by one with 25mm. Otherwise you will not seal the oil there.

	Place the holder plate for the new pick-up module onto the engine. Into the place the old magneto unit had been and screw it down. Place the screws into the middle of the long (adjustment) holes to enable timing adjustment.

	The new stator unit is pre-assembled so that you can recognize its structure more easily. To install it, it has to be partially disassembled however. Take care not to damage the paint insulation of the coils. Unscrew the new stator coil from its base plate (the 3 hex screws) and lift it a little away from it so that you can access the mounting holes in the base plate. Now put the base plate consisting of the steel ring and the base plate (aluminium) onto the engine block and screw it down with the 2 screws M6 provided.

	Now put the stator coil back into its position on the plate, taking care not the damage the wires. Make sure that the inner opening of the stator unit slots evenly over the elevated fixing rim of the base plate - otherwise the coil will sit loopsided and will touch the rotor, damaging it. Screw the coil down with the 3 hex screws M6x30 and tighten. The thick black coil will now show into an about 11 o'clock direction. The wire will either run as shown here upwards through the opening between the base for the dynamo and the base for the magneto or it can be usehere out sideways as shown on some of the following pictures. The long cable has to be lead out through the top opening into the rear of the engine.

	There is a rubber grommet on the stator wire. Press it into the wire exit opening and than cut the surplus material off carefully. (Photo shows different motor!)

	Screw the white ground cables coming from the stator unit down to the holding plate of the pick-up. Put the rotor onto the crank and screw it down with one of the provided screws M8x40 or M8x35. Do not forget to place the washer there. To disangage the rotor again, use a puller M27x1.25, never a claw puller or hammer blows!

	You will now have to bring the crank into top dead center position (TDC). Make sure that you first take both spark plugs out to get rid of the compression. Start moving the crank with the kick lever and finetune by hand using the new rotor. You have a TDC ("OT") marking on the flywheel which can be seen through the inspection hole on the bike's lefthand side. Make sure to use the OT marking (top dead center) and not one of the other (advance) markings.

	Once you found the crank's top dead center position hold it and place the cam with the rotor disc (you have done away with the screw M5 for transportation use) onto the camshafts nose - so that its marking will allign with the left edge of the sensor's core. In this position screw it securely down with the special screw provided. With that you have set ignition timing to standard values. You may vary this setting by shifting the whole ignition module in its long holes (as you did before with the original magneto).

	Turn the black rotor on the crankshaft again by hand to bring the middle of either of the two perimeter elevations (noses) of the new magunits rotordisc to stand at the sensor and check that the gap between the sensor pin and the highest point of the rotor disc's elevation has the required 0,4mm gap. If not, loosen the sensor screws, adjust and retighten carefully. Even if by chance the gap was correct, fasten the screws! They are loose at time of delivery.

	Connect the yellow wire from the pickup with the yellow wire from the cable on the generator and fix the wires with the provided small clamp to prevent it from interfering with the rotor. Now work on the engine is finished. Place the spark plugs back.

The following is a proposal which you may alter if you so wish (in the case of the 51/3 and the 67 you have to do differently as the tank tunnel is not wide enough for the rather bulby ignition coil. For those bikes the system 70 81 999 0XX is the better option):
	The new electronic ignition coil and the advance unit are pre-mounted on a holder plate which itself will be fitted with 3 clamps to the frame under the petrol (gas) tank. The supplied mounting plate for the new ignition coil and advance unit and the attached clamps do not fit on any BMW frame. It must be modified or replaced in individual cases.

There is no difference between the BMW curves in the 2 unit versions.	Have a look at the advance unit (the black box). You will notice on the side the wires come out small switches. They are used to activate different advance curves inside the bow. The BMW curve is activated when all of them (older systems had 2, newer have 4) are set towards the printed numbers, away from ON (that is to OFF).

	First, take the loosely pre-assembled 3 clamps off. Than screw the new high tension (HT) cables into the outlets of the new ignition coil (this would be more difficult once the coil is on the bike) and unfasten the strapping of the original wiring harness to get some needed flexibility. Put the 2 larger clamps with the black rubber insets onto the upper frame tube (the one directly under the tank). Make sure to put the closed, straight side of the clamps to the right side side, with the hole facing downwards. The first clamp has to sit about 15mm away from the steering head and the second about 170mm from the head. As the clamps get widened by putting them on, use a pair of pliers to close them again. Now put the 3rd, smaller clamp onto the frame tube below the 2 clamps between horn and engine mount. Again with the closed, straight part of the clamp to the righthand side.
Put the holder plate (with the pre-mounted electronic parts) from the left side to the 3 clamps. Do not put the holder plate between the clamps, but to their left sides. Attach the plate to the clamps, using the supplied screws. For the upper front clamp the screw goes in from the left and for the upper rear clamp from the right. The screw for the bottom clamp will be inserted too from the right side.. Arrange the plate between the 2 frame tubes so that none of it could - under the influence of the bikes vibrations - scratch the frame. It should sit vertically a little outside centre to the right. Fasten the screws of the complete holder assembly.

	The new regulator/rectifier could be fitted under the rear holder for the petrol tank. (On this proposal the customer has used a selfmade unit plate - you also could order our plate part-no.: 70 80 899 40) For this, unscrew the nut (spanner 13) securing your BMW's tank holder and put your new regulator plate (with the regulator on it) underneath. The regulators cooling fins will face upwards. Put the nut back, do not forget to put the washer back. You may fit the regulator/rectifier in any other way.

	If you opt to drive without battery, something technically possible with this system, you may place the regulator and the advance unit into an empty battery casing.

Wiring: 1) First, there is the new cable that leads from the engine compartment. This has two sections at the end. One with a plug with 4 holes, but only 3 cables and another with two black cables with 6.3 mm plugs on the end. Moreover, sitting on the harness with a rubber bushing, which is intended for cushioning the housing outlet. Connect the plug of the Lima 4-wire (with the cables red, white and yellow) with the appropriate counterpart to the electronic control unit.

	2) Now take the new prefabricated battery cable to the 6-way connector. In this three wires are already attached: 1x brown for ground, red for plus 1x and 1x blue / red for the charge control. Insert the plug into the 6-way plug housing from the regulator. Make sure that brown comes in brown, red to red and blue / red to green / red. In the three empty slots of the connector, insert the two black wires from the stator. These have to be plugged to the two black wires from the regulator. The connector should click into place there. If they do not, turn the plug through 180 degrees. It does not matter which black wire in which plug - as long as they sit side by side in parallel. A slot in the 6-way connector 6 leaves free.

3) Now connect the plug of the new blue cable from the headlight with the pin on the green / brown single wire of the new regulator. This is the port for loading control. Look for the red / black patterned cable coming from the headlight housing and previously went to the magneto. Run this cable at the height of the new ignition coil and cut it to length. Rely on the end of the cable the supplied small contact 2.8mm, then insert the plastic sheath. Now the new plug is connected to its counterpart on the new ignition coil. This is the cable for the kill switch (ground circuit of the ignition switch, terminal 2). Remember, as long as this is due to ground the ignition is switched off.

4) Run the beginning of the 6-way plug battery cable to the battery. The two eyelets are later connected to the battery. Note now that both of these cables (with the exception of the distant red wire, which ran from terminal 30 of the old Lima to the battery) will be in addition to the existing cable trays on the original BMW battery system. Without the reconnection of the old battery cable, it does not work!

5) Now that everything is connected, you should bring some order to the cable run and secure the cables with cable ties to the frame. Think also of the two ignition wires, which should run in a long arc toward the rear, to avoid being trapped under the tank.

6) You can either run the ignition cables to the spark plugs directly from above, or - which gives a better look - on the top cover leading into the engine, so they can escape back to their usual places of the case. You must either extend the existing cable hole on the casing, or drill two holes 10mm in the upper lid. We deliver 2 rubber bushings, you can insert into the mounting holes to cushion the entrance. We recommend that you drill the holes from the underside of the cover here, because you recognize otherwise bad, where is the strut.

Connect the parts as shown in the respective wiring diagram!
For our standard DC regulator (95 22 699 06), use the wiring diagram 92xk-7080:

To facilitate the wire exiting through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the advance unit have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.

Look for the advance unit with its female plug and the three wires (red/white, yellow and white).

Put the provided 4-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the three wires (red, yellow and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:

red to red/white
yellow to yellow
white to white

Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.

The second plug at the advance (a male plug) will be connected to the plug at the ignition coil. This two plugs can only be connected in one position. Note the changing colour:

red to red/white
white to white
blue/white of the advance unit to yellow of the ignition coil

Important! Never run the high tension cable(s) and the cable(s) of the advance unit closely in parallel (say in one shielding). This will trigger back coupling that disturbes ignition and might even damage the advance unit.

Connecting Powerdynamo alternator to lighting circuit (via regulator):

The 2 black wires running from the stator coil carry the voltage for lights, horn, flashers etc. They have nothing to do with ignition.

This voltage (something between 10 and 50 volts AC) has however to be stabilized (regulated) and for most uses rectified into direct current (DC) as it primarily is alternating current (AC).

For this we offer 2 different regulators:

Attention: Any confusion between plus and minus (with the DC versions) leads to immediate destruction of the regulator. This will not constitute a warranty case as it is negligence! One can recognize a burnt regulator mostly by its sharp smell.

Regulator type 1: with standard DC regulator (95 22 699 06), use the wiring diagram 92xk-7080:

The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used. A female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there correspondingly black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.

The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...

... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there correspondingly a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative terminal on the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground/earth (chassis).

The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...

Take care:
Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there correspondingly a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to positive terminal of the battery, or (in case you drive without battery) to the positive pin of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).

Make sure that you have a 16A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.

The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...

Remark:
Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.

... is for the charging light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator.

Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.

The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.

Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-out) wire.

Note:
Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!

Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!

This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground.

Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-out works like previously.

Screw the high tension (ignition) cables ...

Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seals before mounting the coil (it will be easier).

Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.

You will be doing yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug caps (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.
Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).

In our twin outlet coils both ends of the secondary go to the spark plugs.

Typical resistance between both exits is 6.2kOhm. Both exists fire at the same time (as many twin systems do). Sparks will be polarised however at a 180 degrees difference which might manifest when you strobe it.

Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected. You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets and make sure they are good. If in doubt, measure resistance on a hot socket (warm it up before measuring).

Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis.

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first attempt to kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments with the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. The timing marks on the material are for general guidance only during first installation. Please check after assembly by suitable means (stroboscope) that settings are correct to prevent damage to the engine or possibly even your health. You alone are responsible for the installation and the correctness of settings.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. Never pull sparkplug caps when engine is running. Wash your vehicle only with engine at standstill and ignition off.
#	Should you have received in the kit HT cables with a fixed rubber boot(which does not contain a resistor) you might have to use spark plugs with an inbuilt resistor (or replace the cap with one containing a resistor) to comply with your local laws.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse apply changes to it. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburetor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburetor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue (or blue/white) cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, make sure there is a good electrical connection between frame and engine block. In case of troubles, please consult our Knowledge Base first before you send off the material to us for checking
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts comparatively little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (which however makes it highly visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore is needle thin focused in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kick-start operated speeds and not by pushing the kick-lever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. Also with such open exits long and dangerous sparks may fly all over the coil.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off. The same is true for soldering. Before touching electronics disconnect the soldering iron from mains! Never use copper putty on spark plugs.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour jumps between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which promise to increase spark.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*



Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle

Company	Products	Technical Help	Search