Powerdynamo assembly instruction for BMW R50,R50S,R60,R51/3,R67,R68,R69,R69S (only ignition)

If you can install and time a stock ignition and possess basic mechanical skills, you can install a Powerdynamo! If you never have worked on your ignition, better have it done by someone who knows.
Powerdynamo can not monitor the compliance to those instructions, nor the conditions and methods of installation, operation, usage and maintenance of the system. Improper installation may result in damage to property and possibly even bodily injury. Therefore we assume no responsibility for loss, damage or cost which result from, or are in any way related to, incorrect installation, improper operation, or incorrect use and maintenance. We reserve the right to make changes to the product, technical data or assembly and operating instructions without prior notice.
IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Do not cut off wires. This leads to a loss of reverse polarity protection and often results in damage to electronics. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. Wrong ignition settings may damage your engine and even hurt you during kickstart (violent kickbacks). Be careful during the first test runs. If needed change settings to safer values (less advance). During assembly check carefully that the rotor (flywheel) does not touch the stator coils or anything else, which may happen due to various circumstances and lead to severe damage.
	Designated use This system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator & ignition systems in vintage and classic motorcycles whose engine characteristics have not been modified aftermarket. This system is not a tuning system and it will not bring significant increases in engine output. It does however significantly enhance roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging stock systems, increased reliability. As our system does not tamper with engine characteristics it does not increase emission of gaseous pollutants and noise. In most cases emission of pollutants should even be reduced due to better combustion. If used as designated the system therefore will not normally infringe the existing legal status of the motorcycle (this statement is valid for Germany, for other countries, please check locally against your road licensing regulations). This system is not suitable for use in competition events. If used other than the designated way, warranty will be voided and it might well be that you do not obtain the desired results or, worst you loose legal roadworthiness. The charging system is only suitable for use with rechargable 12V (6V systems 6V) lead-acid batteries with liquide electrolyte or sealed lead-acid batteries, AGM, Gel. It is not suitable for use with nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal-hydride, lithium-ion or any other types of recharchable or non rechargable batteries. This is a replacement system and not a copy of the stock material. The parts in this system therefore look different and might fit differently (notably ignition coil and regulator) requiring some adaptation by you.
	During assembly imperatively start with assy of engine based parts to see that those really fit before you start fitting the external parts. In many cases customers assemble those first and thereby often modify them in breach of warranty which renders them unfit for renewed sale. Replacing old ignition systems is not a matter of taking something from a supermarket shelf as there have been very many types, versions and possibly unknown aftermarket modifications which harbour plenty of room for error.
	Our systems are NOT tested for use with third party electronic devices (such as GPS, mobile phones, LED lighting etc)and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our information for suitable solutions. Possibly existing safety switches and electronic valve controls are not supported. It might be that your motorcycle was originally equipped with an ignition that did limit top speed for legal reasons. The new system does not have such a facility, so check your legal situation beforehand.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle, possibly even lead to bodily harm.
	Before you order a system, please check whether a puller tool for the new rotor is included in the kit. If not, better order it at the same time. You might want to order light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than the recommended puller tool to pull the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of other tools or methods is not covered by warranty.
	The rotor is sensible to blows (including during transport). Before assembly, please always check for damage (on rotor without magnet plastification try to push the magnets aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor solely by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During engine run the damage would be considerable. Before placing the rotor onto the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected any metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.
	If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz

	You should have received those parts: twin ignition coil / advance unit (pre-assembled on holder plate) AC/DC converter sensor (on plate) cam / trigger disc ht-cable bits & pieces The supplied mounting plate for the new ignition coil and advance unit and the attached clamps do not fit on any BMW frame. It must be modified or replaced in individual cases.

Make sure your motorcycle rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the front of the engine. You will have to turn the front wheel from time to time for better access. Drain your petrol tank into a safe canister. Make sure you do not spill petrol. Refrain from smoking. Disconnect the connecting tube under the petrol (gas) tank and take the tank off. Put it into a safe place for the duration of the works. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle for the duration of the works.

	Take off the generator's cover. Disconnect the red/black cable that goes to the main switch (pin 2) and remove it. Loosen the screw that keeps the centrifugal rotor and the magnet on the camshaft with a 6mm Allen key. Remove the two screws (key 10 mm) of the magneto and remove it.

	Check the diameter of the sealing stud on the original magneto rotor. You normally have here 25mm. On R68 and some R69 however that is 28mm.
	Should you find 28mm there, you will have to replace the existing oil seal 28x40x7 by one with 25x40x7. Otherwise you will not seal the oil there.

	Place the holder plate for the new pick-up module onto the engine. Into the place the old magneto unit had been and screw it down. Place the screws into the middle of the long (adjustment) holes to enable timing adjustment.

	You will now have to bring the crank into top dead center position (TDC). Make sure that you first take both spark plugs out to get rid of the compression. Start moving the crank with the kick lever and finetune by hand using the new rotor. You have a TDC ("OT") marking on the flywheel which can be seen through the inspection hole on the bike's lefthand side. Make sure to use the OT marking (top dead center) and not one of the other (advance) markings.

	Once you found the crank's top dead center position hold it and place the cam with the rotor disc (you have done away with the screw M5 for transportation use) onto the camshafts nose - so that its marking will allign with the left edge of the sensor's core. In this position screw it securely down with the special screw provided. With that you have set ignition timing to standard values. You may vary this setting by shifting the whole ignition module in its long holes (as you did before with the original magneto).

	Turn the black rotor on the crankshaft again by hand to bring the middle of either of the two perimeter elevations (noses) of the new magunits rotordisc to stand at the sensor and check that the gap between the sensor pin and the highest point of the rotor disc's elevation has the required 0,4mm gap. If not, loosen the sensor screws, adjust and retighten carefully. Even if by chance the gap was correct, fasten the screws! They are loose at time of delivery.

	Connect the yellow wire from the pickup with the yellow wire from the cable on the generator and fix the wires with the provided small clamp to prevent it from interfering with the rotor. Now work on the engine is finished. Place the spark plugs back.

	The following is a proposal which you may alter if you so wish (in the case of the 51/3 and the 67 you have to do differently as the tank tunnel is not wide enough for the rather bulby ignition coil. For those bikes the system 70 81 999 0XX is the better option): The new electronic ignition coil and the advance unit are pre-mounted on a holder plate which itself will be fitted with 3 clamps to the frame under the petrol (gas) tank. The supplied mounting plate for the new ignition coil and advance unit and the attached clamps do not fit on any BMW frame. It must be modified or replaced in individual cases.

There is no difference between the BMW curves in the 2 unit versions.	Have a look at the advance unit (the black box). You will notice on the side the wires come out small switches. They are used to activate different advance curves inside the bow. The BMW curve is activated when all of them (older systems had 2, newer have 4) are set towards the printed numbers, away from ON (that is to OFF).

	First, take the loosely pre-assembled 3 clamps off. Than screw the new high tension (HT) cables into the outlets of the new ignition coil (this would be more difficult once the coil is on the bike) and unfasten the strapping of the original wiring harness to get some needed flexibility. Put the 2 larger clamps with the black rubber insets onto the upper frame tube (the one directly under the tank). Make sure to put the closed, straight side of the clamps to the right side side, with the hole facing downwards. The first clamp has to sit about 15mm away from the steering head and the second about 170mm from the head. As the clamps get widened by putting them on, use a pair of pliers to close them again. Now put the 3rd, smaller clamp onto the frame tube below the 2 clamps between horn and engine mount. Again with the closed, straight part of the clamp to the righthand side.
Put the holder plate (with the pre-mounted electronic parts) from the left side to the 3 clamps. Do not put the holder plate between the clamps, but to their left sides. Attach the plate to the clamps, using the supplied screws. For the upper front clamp the screw goes in from the left and for the upper rear clamp from the right. The screw for the bottom clamp will be inserted too from the right side.. Arrange the plate between the 2 frame tubes so that none of it could - under the influence of the bikes vibrations - scratch the frame. It should sit vertically a little outside centre to the right. Fasten the screws of the complete holder assembly.

	The new regulator/rectifier could be fitted under the rear holder for the petrol tank. (On this proposal the customer has used a selfmade unit plate.) For this, unscrew the nut (spanner 13) securing your BMW's tank holder and put your new regulator plate (with the regulator on it) underneath. The regulators cooling fins will face upwards. Put the nut back, do not forget to put the washer back. You may fit the regulator/rectifier in any other way.

	Additional you have to hide the AC/DC converter. It looks like the advance unit, but it has a different function. You may discriminate the converter from the control unit by the 3 cable strands, including one with long white and red cables. In operation the converter will heated. It should therefore not be mounted directly to the advance unit or beneath an engine cover.

	The left photo shows the wiring of the parts (you may enlarge the photo by clicking onto it). Here you can take a look at the wiring diagram. The following is a verbal description of the wiring.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 599.2:
Start with the converter:
	There are 3 wire bundles at the black converter box. (You may tell the converter from the advance unit which is housed in an identical box by those 3 bundles. The advance unit has only 2.): one bundle containing a red and a white wire with open ends a second bundle with a 4-position male plug (only 3 used) containing a red, a white, a blue/white and a green/red wire a third bundle with a 4-position female plug (only 3 used) containing a green/red, a white and a blue/white wire
The bundle with the open-end-wires:	Connect the white (earth) wire to the negative (minus) pole of the battery and the red wire (via a *5-Ampere-fuse*) to the main switch at a terminal there that carries voltage when the switch is ON.
The bundle with the 4-position male plug ...	... connect to the fitting counterpart plug at the ignition coil. Make sure that red goes to red, white to white and blue/white to yellow.
The bundle with the 4-position female plug ...	... connect to the fitting counterpart plug of the advance unit. Make sure that blue/white goes to blue/white, white to white and red/green to red/white. The green/red wire remains unconnected.
Remains the 2. bundle at the advance unit (with the wires yellow, white, red/white):	... get connected to the yellow and the white (ground) wire from the sensor. To connect use the supplied plug housing and plugs. Make sure that yellow goes to yellow and white to white. The red/white wire remains unconnected.
This bundle with the 4- position female plug ...
Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact! The system will work with both 6 or 12 Volts (adapts automatically). It will however not work without battery! Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. The timing marks on the material are for general guidance only during first installation. Please check after assembly by suitable means (stroboscope) that settings are correct to prevent damage to the engine or possibly even your health. You alone are responsible for the installation and the correctness of settings.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. Never pull sparkplug caps when engine is running. Wash your vehicle only with engine at standstill and ignition off.
#	Should you have received in the kit HT cables with a fixed rubber boot(which does not contain a resistor) you might have to use spark plugs with an inbuilt resistor (or replace the cap with one containing a resistor) to comply with your local laws.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse apply changes to it. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburetor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburetor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue (or blue/white) cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, make sure there is a good electrical connection between frame and engine block. In case of troubles, please consult our Knowledge Base first before you send off the material to us for checking
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts comparatively little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (which however makes it highly visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore is needle thin focused in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kick-start operated speeds and not by pushing the kick-lever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. Also with such open exits long and dangerous sparks may fly all over the coil.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off. The same is true for soldering. Before touching electronics disconnect the soldering iron from mains! Never use copper putty on spark plugs.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour jumps between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which promise to increase spark.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle