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Einbauanleitung für System 76 96 499 00

Version 28.07.2012

If you can install your stock dynamo/alternator and possess basic mechanical skills, you can install a Powerdynamo!
If you never have worked on your electrical system, better have it done by someone who knows.

Powerdynamo can not monitor the compliance to those instructions, nor the conditions and methods of installation, operation, usage and maintenance of the system. Improper installation may result in damage to property and possibly even bodily injury. Therefore we assume no responsibility for loss, damage or cost which result from, or are in any way related to, incorrect installation, improper operation, or incorrect use and maintenance. We reserve the right to make changes to the product, technical data or assembly and operating instructions without prior notice. 

 


IMPORTANT:

 Please read these instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle
Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Do not cut off wires. This leads to a loss of reverse polarity protection and often results in damage to electronics. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. During assembly check carefully that the rotor (flywheel) does not touch the stator coils or anything else, which may happen due to various circumstances and lead to severe damage.
Designated use
This system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator in vintage and classic motorcycles. As it is a voltage generating unit only, it will in not change your engine characteristics. In most cases it will supply more electric power and hence enhance roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging stock systems, increased reliability.

The system does not replace your ignition. Ignition must be either a compleately selfsupplying magneto or there has to be a battery in the system. The system has not been tested to work with a third party electonic ignition. it may work with it, but also may not and even may damage it. At any rate the system will charge your battery well.
The charging system is only suitable for use with rechargable 12V (6V systems 6V) lead-acid batteries with  liquide electrolyte or sealed lead-acid batteries, AGM, Gel. It is not suitable for use with nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal-hydride, lithium-ion or any other types of recharchable or non rechargable batteries.

This is a replacement system and not a copy of the stock material. The parts in this system therefore look different and might fit differently (notably ignition coil and regulator) requiring some adaptation by you.
During assembly imperatively start with assy of engine based parts to see that those really fit before you start fitting the external parts. In many cases customers assemble those first and thereby often modify them in breach of warranty which renders them unfit for renewed sale. Replacing old electrical systems is not a matter of taking something from a supermarket shelf as there have been very many types, versions and possibly unknown aftermarket modifications which harbour plenty of room for error.
Our systems are NOT tested for use with third party electronic devices (such as GPS, mobile phones, LED lighting or electronic ignition)and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing  electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our information for suitable solutions. Possibly existing safety switches and electronic valve controls are not supported.
If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle, possibly even lead to bodily harm.
Before you order a system, please check whether a puller tool  for the new rotor is included in the kit. If not, better order it at the same time. You might want to order light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc.
Never use anything other than  the recommended puller tool to pull the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of other  tools or methods is not covered by warranty.
The rotor is sensible to blows (including during transport). Before assembly, please always check for damage (on rotor without magnet plastification try to push the magnets aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor solely by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During engine run the damage would be considerable. Before placing the rotor onto the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected any metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
You should have received those parts:
  • adapter plate with stator coil
  • rotor (flywheel), fastening screw and bush and rotor puller
  • regulator/rectifier
  • fastening screws, terminal bushes

  • all pictures may be enlarged by clicking onto them
Make sure your Honda rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the engine. 
You do yourself a favour when you first completely read the instructions before you start work. 

Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle for the time of work.


Remove the stock alternator and regulator
Einbau Lichtmaschine:


Jetzt können Sie den neuen Rotor auf die Kurbelwelle setzen. Prüfen Sie das er niergends schleift und fest auf dem Konus sitzt. Die Position ist egal.

Das etwas überstehende Stück Welle wird mit dem Adapterstück überdeckt und der Rotor mit der miteglieferten Schraube M10x1 befestigt.

 Schrauben Sie ihn mit der originalen Schraube und Unterlegscheibe fest an.

Die Zeichnung links zeigt noch einmal die genaue Reihenfolge aller Teile die auf der Kurbelwelle sitzen.
 

To pull the new rotor, use only the provided puller M27x1,25 (order-no.: 72 98 799 99).

Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

Als nächstes kommt nun der Stator (vormontiert auf der Grundplatte) in den Seitendeckel.

Er zentriert von Unten an den drei originalen Führungen. Stellen Sie sicher das die Platte dort sicher aufsetzt und nicht verkantet!


 

Schrauben Sie ihn mit den drei mitgelieferten M5x15 Schrauben und Unterlegscheiben fest.


 

Das ist der fertig montierte Statordeckel.

Setzen Sie diesen wie original auf den Motor. Drehen Sie die Welle langsam von Hand durch und hören Sie aufmerksam auf etwaige Schleifgeräusche (falls es ein Passproblem Rotor/Stator gibt, was Sie nun nicht mehr sehen können)

Connecting alternator for supply of lighting voltage to the grid
The two black wires from the Powerdynamo alternator carry voltage for lighting. They have no role in ignition.

This voltage has to be stabilised (regulated) and rectified (converted from AC into DC).

For this a rectifier/regulator is used. In this case a regulator part 73 00 799 50.
This regulator has been designed for systems running without battery and hence has a smoothing condenser inside to combat the effects of the remaining frequency in the DC voltage, but is may without reservation also be used in battery based systems, as long as this is a 12V lead/acid battery
Carefull: Any mixup in wires immediately destroys the part Same happens when you use in in positive earth systems (where plus is on chassis, this needs to be reversed!). Such events mostly result in the regulator developping some sharp, burnt smell.
Rectifier/regulator with inbuilt smoothing condenser (73 00 799 50)

 

  • the two black wires from the PD alternator (AC)
  • the red wire is the 12V DC output point
  • the bown wire is ground and also internally connected to housing
  • there is no option for a charge control lamp.

 

Important safety and operating information

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 Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
The timing marks on the material are for general guidance only during first installation. Please check after assembly by suitable means (stroboscope) that settings are correct to prevent damage to the engine or possibly even your health. You alone are responsible for the installation and the correctness of settings.

#

 Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
Never pull sparkplug caps when engine is running. Wash your vehicle only with engine at standstill and ignition off.

#

 Should you have received in the kit HT cables with a fixed rubber boot(which does not contain a resistor) you might have to use spark plugs with an inbuilt resistor (or replace the cap with one containing a resistor) to comply with your local laws.

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 After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.

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 Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse apply changes to it.
Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburetor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburetor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue (or blue/white) cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, make sure there is a good electrical connection between frame and engine block.
In case of troubles, please consult our Knowledge Base first before you send off the material to us for checking

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The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts comparatively little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (which however makes it highly visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore is needle thin focused in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kick-start operated speeds and not by pushing the kick-lever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).

#

 Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. Also with such open exits long and dangerous sparks may fly all over the coil.

#

 Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off. The same is true for soldering. Before touching electronics disconnect the soldering iron from mains! Never use copper putty on spark plugs.

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 Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour jumps between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.

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 When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.

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 Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which promise to increase spark.

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 It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.

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 Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!

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 Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.

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 Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system.
Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!