Powerdynamo, Alternator assembly instructions for Honda CB 650/750,900,1100 bol d´or

Einbauanleitung für System 77 28 499 00	Version 22.01.2013

If you can install your stock dynamo/alternator and possess basic mechanical skills, you can install a Powerdynamo! If you never have worked on your electrical system, better have it done by someone who knows.
Powerdynamo can not monitor the compliance to those instructions, nor the conditions and methods of installation, operation, usage and maintenance of the system. Improper installation may result in damage to property and possibly even bodily injury. Therefore we assume no responsibility for loss, damage or cost which result from, or are in any way related to, incorrect installation, improper operation, or incorrect use and maintenance. We reserve the right to make changes to the product, technical data or assembly and operating instructions without prior notice.
IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Do not cut off wires. This leads to a loss of reverse polarity protection and often results in damage to electronics. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. During assembly check carefully that the rotor (flywheel) does not touch the stator coils or anything else, which may happen due to various circumstances and lead to severe damage.
	Designated use This system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator in vintage and classic motorcycles. As it is a voltage generating unit only, it will in not change your engine characteristics. In most cases it will supply more electric power and hence enhance roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging stock systems, increased reliability. The system does not replace your ignition. Ignition must be either a compleately selfsupplying magneto or there has to be a battery in the system. The system has not been tested to work with a third party electonic ignition. it may work with it, but also may not and even may damage it. At any rate the system will charge your battery well. The charging system is only suitable for use with rechargable 12V (6V systems 6V) lead-acid batteries with liquide electrolyte or sealed lead-acid batteries, AGM, Gel. It is not suitable for use with nickel-cadmium, nickel-metal-hydride, lithium-ion or any other types of recharchable or non rechargable batteries. This is a replacement system and not a copy of the stock material. The parts in this system therefore look different and might fit differently (notably ignition coil and regulator) requiring some adaptation by you.
	During assembly imperatively start with assy of engine based parts to see that those really fit before you start fitting the external parts. In many cases customers assemble those first and thereby often modify them in breach of warranty which renders them unfit for renewed sale. Replacing old electrical systems is not a matter of taking something from a supermarket shelf as there have been very many types, versions and possibly unknown aftermarket modifications which harbour plenty of room for error.
	Our systems are NOT tested for use with third party electronic devices (such as GPS, mobile phones, LED lighting or electronic ignition)and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our information for suitable solutions. Possibly existing safety switches and electronic valve controls are not supported.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle, possibly even lead to bodily harm.
	Before you order a system, please check whether a puller tool for the new rotor is included in the kit. If not, better order it at the same time. You might want to order light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than the recommended puller tool to pull the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of other tools or methods is not covered by warranty.
	The rotor is sensible to blows (including during transport). Before assembly, please always check for damage (on rotor without magnet plastification try to push the magnets aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor solely by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During engine run the damage would be considerable. Before placing the rotor onto the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected any metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.
	If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz

You should have received those parts:

adapter with stator coil
rotor (flywheel), and rotor puller
regulator/rectifier

all pictures may be enlarged by clicking onto them
from your stock system you will need the rotor bolt and the 3 holder screws for the stator (different between 650 and the larger engines)

Make sure your Honda rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the engine.
You do yourself a favour when you first completely read the instructions before you start work.

Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle for the time of work.

Remove the stock alternator and regulator.


Putting the new alternator on:
	Place the new flywheel onto the crank. Check that it may run freely and is not in collission with something. Rotor position on crank does not matter. Fasten the flywheel with the stock screw. For CB650 this is a M10x1x32 For the larger engines M12x1.25x42 Picture shows similar engine.
	To pull the new rotor, use only the provided puller M27x1,25 with special (diameter reduced) pressure screw to avoid damage to the threading in the crank. Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

	Take the stock stator coil from the engine cover. This coil is fastened by 3 screws M6. You will need the screws to fasten the new stator assembly.

	Place the new stator assembly (the pot with the coil mounted inside) into the cover so that the wire goes to the wire exit of the cover and the openings for the 2 screws align with the screw holes in the cover. Place the rubber grommet into the opening to seal the unit against dirt and water just like the stock system. Best use the stock grommet. We supply one quite similar in size, but only similar, not 100% fitting. After you have placed the cover with the new coil onto the engine, manually (spark plugs out) slowly turn the crank and listen very carefully whether you get any grinding noise from inside the alternator. This is to make sure all fits there and nothing is in collision - you can not see this now any more, but hear.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram g-only:
*		The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used. A female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):
	The two black cables leading from the generator ...	... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.
	The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...	... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).
	The new red cable with the round eye terminal ... Take care: Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!	... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).
	Make sure that you have a 16A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.
	The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ... Remark: Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.	... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator. Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.
	The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.
	Remarks for 6 Volt systems:	There is no charge light control function in our 6 volts systems. Hence no green/red wire The ground wire between plug and regulator body is not brown, but white.
*	Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information for dynamo only systems
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed dynamo a chance to work, before you start to check and test. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic regulator other than the output voltage. You risk several damages to the inner electronic there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Check ground connections carefully and, to be on the safe side and for testing, put an additional ground wire from the regulator directly to the engine block.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator which is for negative earth only.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe those remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. The timing marks on the material are for general guidance only during first installation. Please check after assembly by suitable means (stroboscope) that settings are correct to prevent damage to the engine or possibly even your health. You alone are responsible for the installation and the correctness of settings.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. Never pull sparkplug caps when engine is running. Wash your vehicle only with engine at standstill and ignition off.
#	Should you have received in the kit HT cables with a fixed rubber boot(which does not contain a resistor) you might have to use spark plugs with an inbuilt resistor (or replace the cap with one containing a resistor) to comply with your local laws.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse apply changes to it. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburetor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburetor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue (or blue/white) cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, make sure there is a good electrical connection between frame and engine block. In case of troubles, please consult our Knowledge Base first before you send off the material to us for checking
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts comparatively little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (which however makes it highly visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore is needle thin focused in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kick-start operated speeds and not by pushing the kick-lever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few peculiarities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. Also with such open exits long and dangerous sparks may fly all over the coil.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off. The same is true for soldering. Before touching electronics disconnect the soldering iron from mains! Never use copper putty on spark plugs.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour jumps between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires" which promise to increase spark.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*



Powerdynamo bringt Ihrem Oldtimer Motorrad wieder Zündung und Licht

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