Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light
to your vintage motorcycle
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Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light |
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| Assembly instructions System 70 19 799 00 |
Version 12. 10. 2007 |
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Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system. |
| If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle. | |
| Before you order a system, please check against the section "you
should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in
the kit. You might want to order a puller tool,
light bulbs,
fuse, horn,
flasher
unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires! |
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If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz |
| The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us. | |
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Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push
them aside with your fingers).
After impact the glued in
magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by
magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a
result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage. |
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To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a
puller M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00).
Note: never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off. |
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You should have received those parts:
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| Please note that the stator coil is only loosely fixed to the plate as you will have to lift it off a little for assembly. Further note that the sensor is only loosely fixed, as you will have to set it to correct gap. | |
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| Make sure your motorcycle rests securely,
preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the
dynamo side of the engine. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will install a 12 volts system, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without a battery. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts. |
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Disconnect all wires to the old dynamo, regulator and ignition coils and take
those parts off. You will need a special puller tool to disengage the old rotor. This tool can be made from a strong piece of steelplate, 2 long screws M8 (to be screwed into the bottom dish of the rotor) and some pin to be inserted into rotor and crankshaft. 2 versions of Noris dynamos have been used on M2x125, a 45 Watts and a 60 Watts one. |
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Take the woodruff key from the crank pin. It will not be needed any more and
prevent assembly. If you forget this right at start, you will have to take the
whole new unit off again to get access to the key. Take the 4 screws M6 out which fix the middle dynamo cover to the crankcase. The cover will be secured again together with the base for the new generator. |
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The new stator unit consists of 5 parts arranged in
layers:
The stator assembly is loosely pre-assembled to give you an idea of how it should look like. To fix it to the engine you will have to disassemble it however again. |
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Take the 3 hex socket screws M6 off and lift the stator a little from its
base to gain access to the holder screws below. Take the 2 countersunk screws M5 off which hold the whole assembly together. Take care not to damage the paint insulation of the stator coil. |
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Place the bottom adapter plate (the one with the 4 though
holes and the 2 holes M5) onto the engine. The M5 holes will show into
about a 2 (resp. 8) o'clock direction. Screw the plate down with the 4 hex socket screws M6x30. Make sure that the plate sits correctly into the engine recess and not loopsided. |
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Next thing is to place the top adapter plate. It is a good
idea to usher the wire though the wire opening of this plate already at
that point. Sure that the wire will need to have gone though the stator
base and the steel ring before. The wire exit will face towards driving direction, the new stator will hang loosely.
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Place the steelring with the sensor and the statorbase onto
the adapter unit. The snsor will show into driving direction. Screw the whole assembly down with the countersunk screw M5x35. Make sure that all sits well into each other and that you do not damage the still free hanging stator coil and that you do not squeeze any wires between the plates. |
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Finally, place the stator coil onto its base. Pull carefully
on the stator cable at the same time to help it through. Watch out not to
damage the cable at sharp plate corners. Make sure that the inner opening of the stator unit sits evenly over the elevated fixing rim of the base plate - otherwise the coil will sit lopsided and will touch the rotor, damaging it. Screw the coil down with the 3 screws M6 and tighten. |
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Leed the cables out of the engine. Secure it on its way with a wire binder
fixed at the provided holes on top of the assembly as shown here. |
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Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its
circumference 2 protrusions (noses). They serve for impulse. The moment
the elevation reaches the sensor, it triggers the spark. Do not forget
that your ILO engine turns anticlockwise (seen onto the rotor). Do not worry over the clockwise pointing arrow on the rotor. The system is made for left turn. |
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Turn the rotor slowly by hand and check
clearance between the sensor and one of the rotor noses. This has to
be ca. 0.4mm. You may adjust the gap by loosening the 2 holder
screws of the sensor and shifting it a little. Do not forget to tighten the 2 holder screws of the sensor carefully. If loose, the sensor will get into contact with the rotor and will be destroyed. Check that the rotor runs freely above the baseplats and that its impulse protrusions run at sensor height. (There can be problems with regenerated crankshafts.) |
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Take one spark plugs out and bring the piston into
ignition position. With a standard JLO this should be 3mm BTDC. To
turn the crank, you may use the new rotor as a turn knob. With the crank in ignition position, pull the rotor off again carefully - make sure that by doing this, you will not alter the crank position - and set the rotor again back onto the crank in such a way that the left edge of one (any of the two) of its noses aligns with the sensor pin (as shown here). |
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Again note that your ILO turns
anticlockwise, so from TDC turn clockwise to the advance position. Make sure not the modify the crank position during this operation. Tighten the rotor with the screw, not forgetting the supplied washer. To undo the rotor use a puller M27x1,25. With that the work on the engine is finished. Put the spark plugs back. |
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| Remains installation of the external parts. This will be different from motorcycle to motorcyle. There are however basic common points. | |
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You will have to house:
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If you opt to drive without battery, something technically possible with this system, you may place the regulator and the advance unit into an empty battery casing. |
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Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 72xr12: |
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To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side. | ||||
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Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the three wires (red,
yellow and white).
Put the provided 4-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the three wires (red, yellow and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:
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Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out. |
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The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug): | |||
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The two black cables leading from the generator ... |
... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current. |
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| * | The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ... |
... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis). |
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The new red cable with the round eye terminal ... Take care: |
... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30). |
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| Make sure that you have a 16A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry. | |||||
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The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...
Remark: |
... is for the charge control light.
You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to
the original regulator. |
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| The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok. | |||||
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Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.
Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!
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Switch off via separate kill switch (when driving without battery): The relay will not be fitted. The blue(/white) cable of the ignition coil will be connected to a kill switch, closing against ground (a button at the handlebars). Or you mount an ignition lock that has a facility to connect against ground when in OFF position. |
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Battery method: |
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The brown wire with the ring terminal
from pins 87a und 86 goes to ground.
The black wire from pin 85 goes to a main switch terminal carrying voltage if switched on. |
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In our twin outlet coils both ends of the secondary go to the spark plugs.
Typical resistance between both exits is 6.2kOhm. Both exists fire at the same time (as many twin systems do). Sparks will be polarised however at a 180 degrees difference which might manifest when you strobe it. |
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Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected.
You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted
spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the
other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding
resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets
and make sure they are good. If in doubt, measure resistance on a hot
socket (warm it up before measuring).
Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis. |
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Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...
Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it. |
... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before
mounting the
coil (it will be easier).
Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable. |
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You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and
spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm).
Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even
completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor). |
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Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test. |
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IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often
machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly
touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed
stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here. |
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Important safety and operating information |
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Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. |
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Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. |
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After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely. |
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Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start
to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to
customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully. |
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The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions). |
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Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. |
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Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics. |
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Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions. |
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When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material. |
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Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs. |
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It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion. |
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Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)! |
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Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while. |
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Please do observe these remarks, but at the same
time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of
other customers have successfully installed the system. Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart! |
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