Powerdynamo, Installationsanleitung für Puch 250TF

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	To pull the new rotor again, you need a puller screw M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00 -not provided-). Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

	You should have received those parts! Take care, the sensor is only mounted loosely on the ground plate - because you have to adjust it!

Make sure that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. Disconnect the battery and take it out of the automobile. Note that should you be installing a 12 volt system, you will either need a 12 volt battery. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts.

	Disconnect all cables from your old generator and remove it. Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it any more. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

	Take the preassembled cover holding plate off the new generator. Put the ground plate/stator unit onto the crank case and screw it down with the 2 screws M8. Don't forget to use the washers. Place the screws in the centre of the oblong holes, so you have the possibility for adjustment in both directions.

	Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a protrusion. It serves for impulse. The moment the elevation reaches the sensor, it triggers the spark. Remove the spark plug out. Put the rotor onto the crank shaft for turning the crank. Bring the piston into ignition position (2-2,5mm BTDC).

	Pull the rotor carefully off the crank (without changing the crank's position) and reset it again that the sensor's right edge aligns to the left edge of the sensor core. Take care that during this procedure the crank don't moves, otherwise you have to start again. In this position (see left) tighten the rotor by the screw M8x50, not forgetting the supplied washer.

Turn the rotor slowly by hand and check clearance between the sensor and the rotor nose. This has to be about 0.4mm. You may adjust the gap by loosening the 2 holder screws of the sensor and shifting it a little. Do not forget to tighten the 2 holder screws of the sensor carefully. If loose, the sensor will get into contact with the rotor and will be destroyed. Check that the rotor runs freely above the baseplats and that its impulse protrusions run at sensor height. (There can be problems with regenerated crankshafts.) The ignition adjustment is now finished. In theory you could change the attitude as desired by pull-off the rotor and reset it in a required angle.

	Replace now the cover holder plate on the ground plate. You have to put the two M8x60 screws through the holes in the cover holder plate and the two spacers. (The upper side of the plate is marked by a small bored hole!) Then screw it tight on the ground plate.

	Fasten the regulator/rectifier, the relais and the ignition coil at a convenient place. You can position the parts at every other place. (The photo shows fastening proposal on a motorcycle!)
	Maybe you would like to "hide" regulator and ignition coil in an empty battery case.

This ignition system is a battery ignition - although the existing (magnetic) flywheel. We have made this version to enable (resp. to simplify) the starting of the engine at low speed.
*			The ignition energy is amplified by adding battery power converted into some 340 Volts.
Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71x-bat:
*	Parts of the magneto ignition
*	Caused by the disconnected red wire of the stator unit the magnetic ignition is de-activated. ATTENTION: Do never connect this red wire!
*	Parts of lighting voltage genaration
			The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):
	*	The two black cables leading from the generator ...	... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.
	*	The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...	... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).
	*	The new red cable with the round eye terminal ... Take care: Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!	... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).
	*	Make sure that you have a 8A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.
	*	The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ... Remark: Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.	... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator. Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.
	*	The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.
*	Parts of battery support for ignition
			The converter transforms battery voltage (be that 6 or 12 Volts is of no relevance) into some 340 Volts to amplify the charge of the ignition condenser (which is inside the ignition coil). Depending on primary voltage ( 6 or 12 Volts), revs and therefore number of sparks, the unit consumes between 10 and 15 Watts.

	*	The red wire of the converter ...	... is the wire to input battery voltage Plus. It has to be connected to a terminal of the main switch (ignition lock) that carries voltage when the switch is in ON position (German bikes: terminal 15). It switches the converter on (resp. off).
	*	The white wire of the converter ...	... connects to minus of the battery (ground).
	*	The 4-position plug of the converter (with the 4 cabels red, white, blue/white and green/red) ...	... connected to the fitting counterpart at the ignition coil. Consider the altered cable colours: red to red/white white to brown blue/white to yellow green/red leaves idle
	*	The 4-position plug of the converter (with the 3 cabels white, blue/white and green/red):	Put the provided 4-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (yellow and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect: white to white blue/white to yellow green/red leaves idle the red wire from the generator leaves disconnected too
	Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.
*	High tension cables
	Screw the high tension (ignition) cables ... Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.		... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seals before mounting the coil (it will be easier). Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.
	You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).
	Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected. You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets and make sure they are good. If in doubt, measure resistance on a hot socket (warm it up before measuring). Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis.
*	Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle