Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light
to your vintage motorcycle
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Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light |
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| assembly instructions for system 13 06 799 RT |
Version 16.07.2008 |
| Please take note: All of our 6 Volt systems includes no charge control! |
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Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system. |
| If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle. | |
| Before you order a system, please check against the section "you
should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in
the kit. You might want to order a puller tool,
light bulbs,
fuse, horn,
flasher
unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires! |
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If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz |
| The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us. | |
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Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push
them aside with your fingers).
After impact the glued in
magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by
magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a
result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage. |
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You will need the following tools for assembly:
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To pull the old rotor, you will need a puller tool M10x90 (Teil Nr. 89 99 026). |
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To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25 (part
99 99 799 00 -not provided-).
Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off. |
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Notes on wiring: Experience shows that in the course of time nearly every motorcycle undergoes changes to its wiring. As a result, wire colours and wires themselves on your bike might differ to those we describe. In case of doubt, please consult the original wiring diagrams for MZ on the homepage of MZ-B. |
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You should have received those parts!
Please pay attention: The stator is not screwed tight on the base plate. You have to remove the stator for mounting the base plate on the crank case. |
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| Make sure your MZ rests securely on her
stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access
to the generator side of the engine.
Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will have a 12 volts system further on, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without. You will have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones however in that case too. The horn may stay at 6 volts. For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery. You have to decide which method of ignition cut-off you will use. There are different ways, every one with pros and cons. We have pre-assembled the relay option. |
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Relay option (delivered as standard) pro: You may use the ignition lock as previously. There are no changes on the handling of your bike. contra: You can't use the new system without the battery (but in a case of emergency you can drive without, only the ignition cut-off is out of work). |
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Position 5 method
pro: The bike will be totally driven without battery. This is a big PRO for oldtimer, they will be seldomly driven. contra: You can't cut-off the ignition with the ON/OFF position of the ignition lock, you have to switch the lock short-time on position 5 (previous bump-start position). Further, the bike may be kick-started without ignition key. |
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Cut-off switch method pro: The bike will be totally driven without battery. There is no relay, that might fail. contra: You have to install an additional cut-off switch, preferably at the handle-bars. Tip: You can convert the flasher button as the cut-off (kill) switch. |
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Disconnect the cables from your old generator.
That's normally:
Then remove the generator. graphics by http://www.ostmotorrad.de/schaltplaene/ |
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Disconnect the cables in the switch box, that goes to the regulator and to the
ignition coil.
That's normally:
Remove only the cables between generator and switch box. graphics by http://www.ostmotorrad.de/schaltplaene/ |
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If there is yet right-upwards at the generator
mounting the arresting pin, remove it (with pliers or cut-down). Otherwise the
generator won't fits in the case.
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Remove the 3 fixing screws which hold the stator coil to its
base. Now you can lift-off the coil a little away from the
ground plate (ca. 1cm). So as the mounting holes on the ground plate become
accessible.
Take care:
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The photo shows how the outer steel ring has to be positioned on the old
generator.
(The photo shows a similar engine!) |
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Mount the new stator plate (steel- & aluminium ring), using the
original mounting holes, on the crank case (like shown here).
Note especially to use the correct mounting holes of the plate (see above). The stator coil hangs loosely on the cable.
(photo shows another MZ engine) |
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Once the plate is fixed, reset the stator coil onto it. Here
make double sure not to pinch any wires underneath. At the end, the coil
will sort of snap in sharply, even with some noticable click. If it sits
down rather softly, that you can bet there is a wire underneath. Take care
that the coil sits even on the ground plate, otherwise the unit will be
damaged or at least it causes dysfunctions.
Scrutinize for the last time the mounting holes of the stator: take care to use the right ones for your engine (see above). Screw down the coil with the 3 hex screws M4x25. |
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Under no circumstances effect mechanical changes
on your engine casing in order to fit the system (save for pulling or breaking
the pin at the stator base). Do not try to assemble the new stator without the
steel ring, even if you think temporarily that fitment may only be achieved that
way.
The steel adapter of the system will come to sit at the upper recess for the dynamo, as shown here in the picture (and not somewhere further down the engine as you might initially tend to think). (The photo shows a similar engine!) |
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Place the rotor loosely onto the crank
shaft. Pay attention at the woodruff key, it holds the rotor in the right
position. Sometimes will the woodruff key stands to high above the shaft.
In that case you have to shorten it with a file.
Then check that the rotor may move freely above the stator base. In that position fasten the rotor carefully with the M7x40 screw (please don't forget to use the washer). To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25. |
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Where do you want to position the new ignition coil?
You have the choice! |
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The simplest solution:
Fasten the ignition coil by clamps or cable fixers on the frame under the tank. In the case of the old-fashioned look you have to lead a "dead wire" upwards among the tank. From here goes the "live ht-wire" back downwards to the spark plug. For seeing the changes, you have to stoop deep underneath the tank. |
 
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The smarter solution, but some expensivly and tricky:
Place the new ignition coil in the coil case. Expensive that's why, you have to modify the inner of the case and the new ignition coil. In that case we advice the "simplest solution". (The photo shows the solution without ignition lock!) |
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Advices for mounting the ignition coil in the coil case: You have the choice (in dependency of the quality of the material in the coil box and your willingness and possibilities for spending time and fidgeting):
For the assembling of the ignition coil in the case, you have to remove the original ignition coil and the ignition lock. Take care: the cylinder of the lock is spring-loaded and it will be difficult to relocate. Then remove the ignition case and enlarge the original ht-cable openings. Relocate the coil case and saw-off the terminal block of the ignition lock (but leave the hole for the mounting screw on). Now you have to modify the new ignition coil. Remove the mounting plate of the coil. Then you have to prepare (with plate and screws) a magnetic active mounting of the coil in the case. |
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Connect the red, the white and the brown ground cable (from the new
generator) and the blue cut-off cable to the new ignition coil.
Battery plus remains on pin 30. To that point (or direct to the battery) goes the red cable of the new regulator. To solid ground goes either the brown cable of the regulator or the battery minus cable (then have to go the brown regulator cable direct to the battery minus pole). |
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Fasten the regulator/rectifier and the relay on a convenient place, maybe in the side case beneath the battery. |
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| The following steps are different, depending
of the cut-off method. At first take a look at the terminal allocation of the original main switch in the coil case.  |
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| Relay and kill-switch method | |
| D+: the pin leaves empty, no
cable goes to this point 30: battery and connection to the new regulator (red cable) 54: brake light, horn, plus for charge control- and neutral gear indicator and relay (if mounted) 56: main light 58: parking light, front and rear 57: blank |
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| Position 5 method | |
| D+: the blue cable of the new
ignition coil 30: battery and connection to the new regulator (red cable) 54: brake light, horn, plus for charge control- and neutral gear indicator 56: main light 58: parking light, front and rear 57: blank Attention: If the neutral gear indicator bulb is defect, is the cut-off circuit out of order. You can help yourself by actuating at the same time the rear-wheel brake. |
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Please note: All our 6 Volt systems do not support the charge control function! |
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Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71ir6: |
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To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side. | |||
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Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and
white).
Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:
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Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out. |
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The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye terminal have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact! |
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The regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which two are not used. From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug): | ||
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The two black cables leading from the generator ... |
... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current. |
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The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ... |
... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there a white wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis). |
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The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...
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... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30). |
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| Make sure that you have a 10A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry. | ||||
| The 6 Volt regulator has NO provision for a charge control light! | ||||
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Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.
Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!
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Switch off via separate kill switch (when driving without battery): The relay will not be fitted. The blue(/white) cable of the ignition coil will be connected to a kill switch, closing against ground (a button at the handlebars). Or you mount an ignition lock that has a facility to connect against ground when in OFF position. |
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Battery method: |
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The brown wire with the ring terminal
from pins 87a und 86 goes to ground.
The black wire from pin 85 goes to a main switch terminal carrying voltage if switched on. |
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Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...
Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it. |
... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before
mounting the
coil (it will be easier).
Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable. |
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You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and
spark plug
sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm).
Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even
completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor). |
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Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test. |
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IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often
machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly
touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed
stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here. |
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Important safety and operating information |
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Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. |
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Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. |
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After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely. |
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Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start
to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to
customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully. |
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The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions). |
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Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. |
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Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics. |
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Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions. |
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When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material. |
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Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs. |
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It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion. |
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Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)! |
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Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while. |
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Please do observe these remarks, but at the same
time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of
other customers have successfully installed the system. Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart! |
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