Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light
to your vintage motorcycle
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Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light |
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| Assembly instructions System 71 27 999 00 |
Version 16.10.2007 |
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Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system. |
| If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle. | |
| Before you order a system, please check against the section "you
should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in
the kit. You might want to order a puller tool,
light bulbs,
fuse, horn,
flasher
unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires! |
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If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz |
| The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us. | |
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Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push
them aside with your fingers).
After impact the glued in
magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by
magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a
result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage. |
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To pull the new rotor again, you need a puller M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00).
Note: never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off. |
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You should have received those parts:
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| Insure
that the engine is secure and at a comfortable work height. It is possible
to do the work with the engine still in the frame but insure that the
motorcycle is stable and not at risk of tipping over. Remove the fuel
tank, the battery cover and the tool box to make it easier to gain access
to the parts to be removed and installed. Removing the seat may also make
the job easier. Remove the kickstarter and the foot peg to gain access to
the engine side cover. Remove the engine side cover. Take the original ignition coil and voltage regulator off of the frame as these parts will be replaced by parts from the new system. You may want to keep the original parts for future reinstallation, if you are interested in restoring the motorcycle to original specifications at some time in the future. Otherwise, they will not be needed again. Disconnect and remove the battery. A battery will not be needed after the installation, but the old battery can be replace by a 12V battery if you want to power your lights and horn without running the engine. |
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Once
the engine side cover is removed, remove the original generator and ignition
system. |
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Have a look at the base plate of the new stator. Near the larger black coil you
will find a marking (highlightened here by a circle). This is an ignition
marking. Note: There is no reason to remove the stator from its mounting plate, but if you do remove it, please insure, that it is reinstalled correctly since the ignition timing would be 120 degrees off if the stator were installed incorrectly. |
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Now examine the rotor. Notice that there is a small line inscribed on the exterior of the rotor housing. In the pictures, it is colored white for better visibility. This is also a timing mark. It will be used to align the rotor during installation. |
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Place the mounting
ring in the engine case where the original generator was installed. Align
two of the notches in the adapter plate with the mounting holes on the
engine case. The third notch should be on the left hand side of the
mounting ring (while looking at the engine).
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Place the stator on
the mounting ring and using the two 6mm bolts, attach the stator to the
engine so that the wires exit on the left hand side (while looking at the
engine). |
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Remove the spark plug
and bring the piston to top dead center. It does not matter if the engine is
on a compression cycle or the exhaust cycle. For better control when turning the engine over, shift the transmission into fourth gear and use the rear wheel to rotate the engine. Alternatively, use the new rotor to turn the engine by attaching it to the crankshaft and turning it until the piston is at top dead center. |
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If you used the new rotor to turn the engine, carefully remove the rotor without changing the position of the crankshaft! With the engine still at top dead center, carefully replace the rotor on the crankshaft, aligning the timing mark on the rotor with the timing mark on the stator plate. Carefully tighten the rotor mounting bolt making sure that neither the rotor nor the crankshaft moves while tightening the bolt. If either the rotor or the crankshaft moves, the timing will be incorrect and it will be necessary to reinstall the rotor. When the rotor is correctly installed, replace the spark plug. If you used the rear wheel to rotate the engine, change gears back to neutral. |
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The new ignition coil can be mounted in the same location as the original coil. The new solid state regulator can be mounted in the original location or near the ignition advance housing. If a battery won't be used with the new system, the advance unit and the regulator can be mounted where the battery was housed. Some costumers have mounted the electronics inside a hollowed out battery to maintain the stock appearance. |
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The advance unit and regulator can be mounted under the seat. To take advantage of the different advance curve available with the system, the advance unit should be mounted where it is possible to access the mini-switches at the rear of the advance unit. |
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this proposition the unit is held to the frame by a small makeshift bracket.
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By
setting the switches on the advance unit, several different advance curves
can be chosen. The advance curves are tailored
for different motorcycles so check your documentation for alternate
settings. |
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| The best curve for the Benelli (in our opinion) is shown here: | |
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With switches 1,2,3 to OFF and 4 to ON. This gives full advance of 40 degrees at 3.800rpm and throttles the engine beyond a speed of 8.500rpm to prevent overclocking. |
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With 1,2,3 to ON and 4 to OFF you get full advance at already 3.000rpm. The 8.500rpm brake is active as in curve above. |
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With 1,2,3 and 4 to OFF you get full advance at 3.000rpm and any speed higher than that. No throttling. |
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With all of the switches set to 'ON' the engine will reach full advance of 38 degrees at 3.000rpm. |
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Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 91ir12: |
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To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the advance unit have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side. | |||
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Look for the advance unit with its female plug and the two wires (red and
white).
Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:
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Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out. |
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The brown wires from the new generator and the advance unit with the round eye terminals ... |
... have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact! | ||
| * | The grey resp. green cable of the advance unit ... | ... is the output of the to the ignition coil and gets connected to the single male terminal there. | ||
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Important! Never run the high tension cable and the cables from the generator to the advance and/or the grey wire from the advance to the ignition coil closely in parallel (say in one shielding). This will trigger back coupling that disturbes ignition and might even damage the advance unit. |
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The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug): | ||
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The two black cables leading from the generator ... |
... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current. |
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| * | The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ... |
... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis). |
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The new red cable with the round eye terminal ... Take care: |
... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30). |
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| Make sure that you have a 8A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry. | ||||
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The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...
Remark: |
... is for the charge control light.
You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to
the original regulator. |
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| The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok. | ||||
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Remains the blue/white wire at the advance unit. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.
Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!
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Switch off via separate kill switch (when driving without battery): The relay will not be fitted. The blue/white cable of the advance unit will be connected to a kill switch, closing against ground (a button at the handlebars). Or you mount an ignition lock that has a facility to connect against ground when in OFF position. |
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Battery method: |
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The brown wire with the ring terminal
from pins 87a und 86 goes to ground.
The black wire from pin 85 goes to a main switch terminal carrying voltage if switched on. |
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Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...
Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it. |
... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before
mounting the
coil (it will be easier).
Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable. |
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You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and
spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm).
Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even
completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor). |
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Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test. |
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IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often
machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly
touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed
stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here. |
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Important safety and operating information |
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Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. |
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Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. |
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After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely. |
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Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start
to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to
customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully. |
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The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions). |
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Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. |
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Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics. |
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Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions. |
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When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material. |
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Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs. |
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It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion. |
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Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)! |
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Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while. |
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Please do observe these remarks, but at the same
time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of
other customers have successfully installed the system. Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart! |
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