Powerdynamo for Maico 125GC/MD (AC)

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	You will need the following tools: Phillips screwdriver Tip # 2 hex key 2.5mm spanner 10 crank ring- or socket spanner 17 (for crank shaft nut)
	To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00). Note: never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

Please note: This AC system is made for use in offroad sports and does neither support battery charging nor side indicators. You may therefore not normaly use it on public roads (unless your local regulations permit). Should you need side indicators and/or battery, ask for a DC version of the system. (more info online here)

	You should have received those parts: Please note that the stator coil is only loosely fixed to the plate as you will have to lift it off a little for assembly.

Make sure your motorcycle rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the dynamo side of the engine.

	Disconnect all wires to the old dynamo and ignition coil and take those parts off. Take the woodruff key from the crank pin. It will not be needed any more and prevent assembly. If you forget this right at start, you will have to take the whole new unit off again to get access to the key.

	Take the rubber grommet off the cable exit at the front (or you have done that together with the generator). Lead the cable of the new generator from the generator housing through the cable exit outwards. Take care to lead the stator cable previously (as preassembled) first through the aluminium ground plate and then through the steel ring.

	Take the 3 hex screws off and lift the stator a little from its base to gain access to the holder screws below. Take care not to damage the paint insulation of the stator coil. You have to put first the steel ring and than the aluminium plate instead of the original generator onto the crank case. Screw it down with the 2 countersunk screws M5x25. Take care not to jam any cable.
ATTENTION, important: Before you screw down the ground plate, pull the cable as far as possible (carefully and cautiously) outwards. There are sharp edges, that should damage the cables. Try to pull (from the outside) and push (from the inner) the cables simultaneously. Take care not to skin the cables - the insulation should reach close to the coil. If leaves to many cable inside the generator casing, is there a danger to fitting the stator lopsided and/or jam cables. This procedure is the most complicatest of the whole installation. Damages at this point are difficult to recognise and should lead to malfunctions of the system. That means: Take care!

	Put the stator coil back onto the plate. The thick black coil has to shown at 10 o'clock. The stator has to snap in rather sharply. If it sets soft, you have probably jammed a wire underneath! Make sure that the inner opening of the stator unit slots evenly over the elevated fixing rim of the base plate - otherwise the coil will sit lopsided and will touch the rotor, damaging it. Screw the coil down with the 3 screws M4 and tighten.

	The unit correctly assembled. For a correctly ignition adjustment you have to transcribe the rotor marking (the 4th drill marking -see further below-) at the engine housing!

Ignition timing To get maximum flexibility no groove has been put into the rotor. No need to worry over the now lost woodruff key. It did not have an arresting capacity, it was guiding to correct ignition settings. Now you have the markings and a much greater flexibility.
	Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a small pressed in line. That is an ignition marking. It is durable, but not well visible, especially if mounted, so we have done a well-visible marking at the rotor's upside.
	Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the statorbase. Take the spark plug out and bring the piston into ignition position (by turning the rotor). Take the rotor carefully off again without changing the crank's position. Reset it onto the crank in such a way, that the marking on the rotor aligns with previously transcribed stator marking (see left photo).

Fasten the new ignition coil and regulator at convenient places, best together at the holding clip of the ignition coil. Leave one of the mounting screws loose, you have to fasten a ground cable here. Lay the new generator cables in that way at the frame (using the enclosed cable binders), that they ending close to the regulator / ignition coil. Take care, that nothing is pinched.
	The photos shown similar motorcycles.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71ik-ac:
*	To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.
			Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and white). Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect: white to white red to red
	Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.
	The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye terminal have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!
*			The two black cables leading from the new generator ... ... connect to the outer pins of the new regulator. It does not matter which wire connects to which of the 2 terminals as they carry alternating current. Into either of the two black wires, insert a 10A-fuse.
	*	Additional you need to contact a ground wire ...	... to the metal holder of the regulator. Otherwise the light won't function.
	*	The middle terminal of the regulator ...	... will be connected to the wires for the lighting system of the motorcycle.
*	Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire. Note: Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!		Connected to ground - it will stop ignition! This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground. Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like previously.
*	Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ... Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.		... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier). Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.
	You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).
*	Finally - and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more details and how to check see (online) here.

Important safety and operating information for alternating current (AC) only systems

Practically, the DC regulator (rectifier/regulator) is the better solution. It will take higher loads and is more versatile in use.

The advantage of the AC regulator is in its smallness. This comes in handy in:

vintage motorcycles, where you have a problem to "hide" the rather large DC regulator. The AC regulator could be possibly even mounted inside the headlight casing.
"pure off-road" motorcycles, where you need only some rudimentary electric system and have only few options to fasten the (relatively) heavy DC regulator.

This advantage however goes hand in hand with a series of disadvantages (with possibly even legal implications) of the AC regulator!

You cannot use a battery (hence no parking light)!
You cannot use side indicators (trafficators), unless you install an AC flasher unit, that equally has some (possible even legal) aspects to consider!
You cannot use a normal DC horn (AC-driven that would remain totally silent). You can use an AC horn, but that too has a few points to observe!
The AC regulator handles maximally only 70 Watts load, even if the dynamo would generate more!

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle