Powerdynamo for CZ 250

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	You should have received those parts!

Make sure your bike rests securely on her stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that should you be installing a 12 volt system, you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones however in that case too. The horn may stay at 6 volts. For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery.

	Disconnect the cables from your old generator and remove it. Remove the contact holder (bakelite) from the ignition cable. Unscrew the old stator and take it off the engine. Pull the rotor off, you will need a puller screw for this. Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it any more. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

	Insert a screw M5x25 from the inside in the hole, where previous the power cable were connected. Bolt it together with 2 nuts M5. You can fasten here a "dummy-cable" (maybe a additional ground cable). Anyway, there is no power on this point. Take care of the cable that goes to the lamp, you will need it later (see below).

	Now mount the new ground plate (with the coil), using the original mounting holes, on the crank case and screw it tight. The thick black coil shows at 10 o'clock. Screw down the unit with the 2 hex countersunk bolts M5x16.

	Lead the stator cable through the ignition cable hole out of the case. To preserve the cable against damaging of the rotor, you have to fasten the cable to the stator ground plate with a cablefixer. Use the bore hole beneath the upper mounting (see picture).

	Have a look at the ground plate. There you will find about half past 7 a red point marker. After put on the rotor, is this ignition marking not visible. You have to transcribe it to the case, maybe with a file and a pen. (see picture)

	Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a red point marker. This is an ignition marking too. Both have to align at the point of ignition.

Remove the spark plugs. Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the statorbase. Please pay attention: The fields spider is turning anti clockwise. That means, you have to turn it clockwise (from TDC).

	In case of the obliquely spark plug, it is difficult to find the TDC. You should have to remove the carburettor manifold from the cylinder. You may see the piston through the opening. The piston stands at TDC, if the lower edge of the piston is 1.5mm over the upper edge of the "window". If you see the piston 4mm (see picture), is it the right measure (5.5mm BTDC). It's difficult to measure here, but you should have to appraise. It's not the matter of 0.5mm. If you want to make it accurate, you have to remove the tank and the cylinder head. It's not worth it.

For maximal flexibility of the ignition alignment, we don't have adapted the rotor to the crank shaft with the woodruff key and the notch. But there is no danger of loosen or distortion of the rotor. The rotor was always kept by the cone, never by the woodruff key. You will miss it yet for that time, that you have to fasten the rotor on the crank shaft, without changing the position of both. At this time is a second person, who observe the piston from the other side and inform you about every change immediately, such as good as gold.

	Put the new rotor handtight on the crank shaft for turning the shaft (clockwise). Bring the piston into ignition position. Might be 5.5mm BTDC. Take the rotor carefully off again without changing the crank's position. Reset it onto the crank in such a way that the marking on the rotor aligns with the marking on the stator. In that position fasten the rotor carefully with the original nut. (Please don't forget to use the thick washer.) After that check the piston position. If there is any (big) change in the crank's position, you have to start again.

Now the wiring: It is possible, that there are some differences on your CZ in relation to our description. Who knows what happens with the electric since 1936/37.
	To facilitate wire exit from the engine, the plastic plug at the end of the stator wire is not set yet at time of delivery. You will have to insert the wire-end-terminals into the plastic plug, paying attention to their position there. white shall connect to white red to red The brown cabel with the round-eye terminal goes to the ground of the ignition coil.

The CZ drives originally with AC- and DC-Power. AC for the driving light. DC for charging the battery, the horn and the parking light.
	From the generator (the cable over the current collector contact) came AC. This cable goes in the lamp to the switch. From this point (position "main light") to the headlight and to the rectifier (the round part with the arrow). You have to cut-off the connection to the rectifier (securely cut through both cables). The throttle coil (right side of the picture) had some kind of regulating function, to prevent to burn through of the bulbs. The throttle may stay.

You remind of the screwed-off power cable from the generator, that is now placed by an "dummy cable". You have to connect this screwed-off cable with the previous plus cable of the battery. (It makes sense to lay there new cables.) The connection of both cables have to lead to the empty battery case and will be connected there with the new regulator. (see below §§)

Fasten the cables at the pre-assembled ignition coil/regulator unit as shown following.


	Put the unit in the empty battery case. Now you have to put the battery case to the original place. It's some fidgeting, CZ was stingy with room here. You will be happy, you don't have to handle no more with the battery.

	Fixing the cables on their way to he "battery" with cable fixers.

	Last, but not least: You have to replace the horn against a DC-horn. It sounds not pretty, but loud. (The DC-horn wouldn't say a word!)

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71ik-ac:
*	To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.
			Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and white). Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect: white to white red to red
	Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.
	The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye terminal have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!
*			The two black cables leading from the new generator ... ... connect to the outer pins of the new regulator. It does not matter which wire connects to which of the 2 terminals as they carry alternating current. Into either of the two black wires, insert a 10A-fuse.
	*	Additional you need to contact a ground wire ...	... to the metal holder of the regulator. Otherwise the light won't function.
	*	The middle terminal of the regulator ...	... will be connected to the wires for the lighting system of the motorcycle.
*	Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire. Note: Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!		Connected to ground - it will stop ignition! This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground. Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like previously.
*	Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ... Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.		... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier). Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.
	You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).
*	Finally - and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more details and how to check see (online) here.

Important safety and operating information for alternating current (AC) only systems

Practically, the DC regulator (rectifier/regulator) is the better solution. It will take higher loads and is more versatile in use.

The advantage of the AC regulator is in its smallness. This comes in handy in:

vintage motorcycles, where you have a problem to "hide" the rather large DC regulator. The AC regulator could be possibly even mounted inside the headlight casing.
"pure off-road" motorcycles, where you need only some rudimentary electric system and have only few options to fasten the (relatively) heavy DC regulator.

This advantage however goes hand in hand with a series of disadvantages (with possibly even legal implications) of the AC regulator!

You cannot use a battery (hence no parking light)!
You cannot use side indicators (trafficators), unless you install an AC flasher unit, that equally has some (possible even legal) aspects to consider!
You cannot use a normal DC horn (AC-driven that would remain totally silent). You can use an AC horn, but that too has a few points to observe!
The AC regulator handles maximally only 70 Watts load, even if the dynamo would generate more!

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle