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Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light |
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| Assembly instructions System 70 50 599 00 |
Version 25. 10. 2007 |
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Please do read those instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system. |
| If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle. | |
| Before you order a system, please check against the section "you
should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in
the kit. You might want to order a puller tool,
light bulbs,
fuse, horn,
flasher
unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires! |
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| If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz | |
| The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us. | |
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Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push
them aside with your fingers).
After impact the glued in
magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by
magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a
result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage. |
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You should have received those parts:
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Make sure your R35 rests securely on her centre stand, preferably on an
elevated work bench and that you have good access to the front of the engine.
You will have to turn the front wheel from side to side for good access.
Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle for the time of work.Drain the petrol (gas) from the tank into a canister. Take care not to spill any petrol and refrain from smoking. Disconnect the tube running between the tanks sides under the frame tube. Take the petrol tank off the bike and put it to a secure place for the time of work at the bike. |
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Take the complete concatc breaker unit,
including its housing off. There will be new parts at this sport.
If you make yourself a small holder for the bowden cable, it may remain for optical reasons. Technically it will be defunct. |
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Clean the drilling hole in the cam shaft. There has to be
placed the pin of the trigger unit. The pin is a little carved-in (for
better hold), but you should better stick it in. The pin has a even
plane for escape of air.
Before you stick-in the pin, ckeck the correct position of the pin against the sensor (same level). |
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Place the preassembled sensor unit on the motor case.
Mount it with the both threaded rods M4. The new housing will be later
mounted with that rods too.
Adjust the rods in that way, that the housing can be good mounted later (and the rods don't come through). |
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The new rotor disc should be in line (or about so, 1 or 2mm to the side will not matter) with the metal core of the
pick-up.
The gap between the pick-up core and the surface of the elevated section (nose) of the rotor disc (any of the 2) has to be 0,4-0,5mm. You adjust that by loosening the pick-up screws a little and shift the part. Do not forget the carefully tighten the 2 screws after that. Under vibrations it might shake loose and get destroyed by the rotor's noses. |
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Lastly timing has to be set. For this, take the spark plug out and set the crank to top dead center
(TDC, marked "OT"),
that is the highest position the piston can get.
Hold the rotorcam with a flat spanner size 13 and open the upper nut. Now you can turn the disc. |
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Turn the crank shaft to the TDC position. Then turn the
disc in that way, that the carved marking aligns to the sensor. Refasten
the screw (don't forget the lockwasher).
If requiered, you can modify the attitude. If you position the disc a little clockwise, you get more advanced ignition, or counter-clockwise, less advanced ignition. But pay attention: wrong settings will damage your engine! |
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With that, work on the engine is finished. Remains to find a place for the external parts and fasten them conveniently. We know that this is easy to say and difficult to do, if you want to keep them as much out of sight as possible. |
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The following photos show an example of the assembly. They
are from the German page www.motorradfreude.de.
Here the new ignition coil has been fixed at the front of the frame. |
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| The advance unit and the converter have been placed into a small box which was than fixed between seat and mudguard. | |
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| Have a look at the advance unit (the black box). You will notice on the side the wires come out 2 small blue switches. They are used to activate the different advance curves inside the bow. | |
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Switch 1 has to be at "ON" position whereas switch 2 was to face the figure 2 there (that is the "OFF" position). If not, the system will not function correctly. |
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Finally, place the new cover on. It will be held in place by the 2 M4 rods ending in M4 nuts. |
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Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 599.2: |
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| Start with the converter: | |
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There are 3 wire bundles at the black converter box.
(You
may tell the converter from the advance unit which is housed in
an identical box by those 3 bundles. The advance unit has only 2.):
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| The bundle with the open-end-wires: | Connect the white (earth) wire to the negative (minus) pole of the battery and the red wire (via a 5-Ampere-fuse) to the main switch at a terminal there that carries voltage when the switch is ON. |
The
bundle with the 4-position male plug ...
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... connect to the fitting counterpart plug at the ignition coil. Make sure that red goes to red, white to white and blue/white to yellow. |
The
bundle with the 4-position female plug
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... connect to the fitting counterpart plug of the advance unit. Make sure that blue/white goes to blue/white, white to white and red/green to red/white. |
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Remains the 2. bundle at the advance unit (with the wires yellow, white, red/white): |
... get connected to the yellow and the white (ground)
wire from the sensor. To connect use the supplied plug housing and plugs. Make sure that yellow goes to yellow and white to white. The red/white wire remains unconnected. |
This
bundle with the 4- position female plug
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Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact! The system will work with both 6 or 12 Volts (adapts automatically). It will however not work without battery! Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test. |
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Important safety and operating information |
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Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. |
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Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40.000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. |
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After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely. |
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Give the freshly installed system a chance to work, before you start
to check and test values, or even worse, before you apply changes thought
to be sensible by you without having seen the system run. Our parts have been checked before delivery. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any sensible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully. |
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The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10.000 Volts only little energy and looks therefore yellow and bulky (hence well visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40.000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form and blue in colour, which makes it not so well visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated revolutions and not already by pressing the kicklever down with your hand (as you might do with battery based ignitions). |
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Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. |
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Never do electric welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics. |
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Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour changes between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions. |
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When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. For transport never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material. |
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Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs. |
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It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion. |
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Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)! |
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Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while. |
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Please do observe those remarks, but at the same
time, be not afraid of installation. Remember, before you, thousands of
other customers have successfully installed the system. Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart! |