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Assembly instructions for system 70 36 799 DC

Version 25.06.2008

 


IMPORTANT:

 Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc.
Never use anything other than  a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires! 

If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz

 


Check packing
and rotor!

 The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result.
Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.
To disangage the new rotor again, you need a puller M27x1,25 (part no. 99 99 799 00 -not provided-).

Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.
You should have received those parts:
  • stator (pre-assembled)
  • rotor
  • electronic ignition coil, high tension cable and blue (kill-) wire
  • regulator/rectifier
  • 3 screws M4, 2 wire binders

Note that the stator is only loosely fixed to its base, as you will have to disengage it for assembly.

Make sure your motorcycle rests securely on her stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. Note that you will install a 12 volts system, so you will need to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. Disconnect the wires from the old dynamo. Pull all wires out of the engine housing.

(Photo shows similar engine) 		Remove all cables that goes to the old ignition coil and to the ULO-box and take off these parts.

Unscrew the old stator and take it off the engine. Pull the rotor off, you will need a puller for this. Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it anymore. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on in the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

Attention: The crank shaft nut is left threaded!
Unscrew the stator coil from the base plate and lift it a little away from it so that you can access the mounting holes. Take care not to damage the paint insulation of the coil.

Put the base plate with the stator hanging loosely from the unit into the place of your old generator. Fasten the plate with the 3 screws M4x10. Take care to not jam any wires under the plate.

 

(photo shows Sachs 4-speed motor)
Put the stator coil back onto the plate, take care not the damage the wires. The stator has to snap in rather sharply. If it sets soft, you have probably jammed a wire underneath!

Make sure that the inner opening of the stator unit slots evenly over the elevated fixing rim of the base plate - otherwise the coil will sit lopsided and will touch the rotor, damaging it.

Screw the coil down with the 3 screws M4 and tighten.

Ignition timing

To get maximum flexibility no groove has been put into the rotor. No need to worry over the now lost woodruff key. It did not have an arresting capacity, it was guiding to correct ignition settings. Now you have the markings and a much greater flexibility.

Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a small pressed in line. That is an ignition marking. It is durable, but not well visible, so better highlighten it with some marker pen.

Have a look at the new stator. You will find on the circumference of its baseplate a small red marking. That too is an ignition marking.

Should you have taken the stator completely off the plate, make sure to put it back into the same position, otherwise timing will be lost. That danger is however small, as the wire will guide you correctly on its way to the exit.
Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the statorbase.

Take the spark plug out and bring the piston into ignition position. Might be 2mm BTDC.

Take the rotor carefully off again without changing the crank's position and reset it onto the crank in such a way that the marking on the rotor aligns with the marking on the stator. In that position fasten the rotor carefully with the original nut.
Fasten the ignition coil and the regulator (left photo shows smaller AC-regulator) on the frame of the motorcycle, best there, where the original coil was. (pictures show different motorcycle)

Now you have to connect the previous DC circuit (flasher, horn and battery charge) and AC circuit (headligts and brake light). Connect the new flasher too. For that you have to identify following cables and:
Leave off without substitution:
  • the green cable from ULO-box (pin 1) to the Motoplat
  • the 2 cables from the Motoplat to the ignition coil
Connect together and then with the plus from battery:

(Our advise: an additional switch and a fuse!)
  • the yellow/green cable, that previous goes from the ULO-box, pin 49 (horn and flasher)
  • the green cable from the brake light, that previous goes to the Motoplat
  • the yellow cable, that previous goes to the Motoplat (headlights)
  • the plus connection of the new flash trigger
The blue shut-off cable (previous from the ignition coil):
  • will be connected to the blue/white cable from the ignition coil. If it is connected to ground, ignition is off (like previous). If something not works, disconnect this cable and retest.
  • will be connected too with the blue cable from the harness. This is the cut-off wire to the ground switch of the engine. Connect it with the blue kill-switch cable of your old Motoplat-system or with the blue cable to the ignition lock.
The brown cable, that goes previous to the ULO-box (pin 31):
  • screw down to solid ground, most safest direct to minus of the battery.
Last but not least, the new flasher cables:
  • 12V plus input voltage is already connected to plus (see above)
  • the output to the flasher switch will be connected to the orange (or sometimes black) cable, that goes previous to the ULO-box (pin 49a)
  • if the flasher trigger has a groundconnection, it has (naturally) to connect to ground
You can enlarge the abstract of the original wiring diagram per clicking onto it!

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71ik12:

*

 To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.

Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and white).

Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:

  • white to white
  • red to red

Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.

The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye terminal have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!

*

The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):

*

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.
* The new brown cable with the round eye terminal  ...

... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).
*

The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...

Take care:
Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).
Make sure that you have a 8A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.

*

The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...

 

Remark:
Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.

... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator.

Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.
The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.
*

Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.

Note:
Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In  many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!

 Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!

This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground.

Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like previously.
* Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...

Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

 ... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier).

Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.
You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.
Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).

*

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
* IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

 

Important safety and operating information

#

 Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.

#

 Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.

#

 After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.

#

 Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system.
Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.

#

The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).

#

 Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.

#

Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.

#

 Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.

#

 When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.

#

 Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.

#

 It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.

#

 Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!

#

 Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.

#

 Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system.
Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!