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System had been running already, but at some point problems started!
It is most likely that:

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There is a problem in the secondary high tension (HT) circuit. Very commonly burnt resistors inside the spark plug caps (they tent to burn faster in this high voltage environment) cause a problem. (if the bike starts when cold, but refuses to start with warm engine you can bet that the resisitor has gone). HT cables may be loose, spark plugs faulty. Please double check on that before you go on searching. Especially twin outlet systems are likely to be subjected to such problems.(Particels shortcutting plug electrodes on one spark plug may prevent the other plug from  firing.)

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Quite often there is a malfunction in the switch-off facility (ignition lock, killswitch, relay, wires related to this have earth contact etc.) which blocks ignition.
It might be that:

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Timing settings may have changed. the rotor may have been loose and turned on the shaft, on external sensor systems the gap between sensor and rotor may have changed (if it is too wide it retards ignition or even prevents it at low - that is starting - revs).

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Due to loose rotors or defective crank bearings magnets and/or stator coils may have become damaged.

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Wires connecting stator-advance-ignition coil could be defective (vibration damage, rubbing against ground). Connecting plug terminals may have corroded or became loose.

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The problem is not associated with ignition at all, but with carburation.

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Material hase become indeed faulty. (This is real rare!)
What to to is:

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Check all wire connections, especially earth wires. On systems with advance unit needing 12 volts feed (xx xx 899 xx systems) check that green/red wire to advance has really 12 volts.

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Check HT cables, replace spark plug caps and spark plugs.

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Disconnect for testing the blue (kill) wire at the ignition coil to exclude any errors in the cut-off system.

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If engine can be made running, check timing with stroboscopic light.

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Take rotor off and inspect magnets and stator for possible damage.

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Check resistance of stator coils with ohmmeter (see details here) (remember: you cannot check the ignition coil with the meter).

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