Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light
to your vintage motorcycle
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Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light |
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| Assembly instructions for system 71 69 999 00 |
Version 23.04.2008 |
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Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system. |
| If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle. | |
| Before you order a system, please check against the section "you
should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in
the kit. You might want to order a puller tool,
light bulbs,
fuse, horn,
flasher
unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires! |
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If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz |
| The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us. | |
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Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push
them aside with your fingers).
After impact the glued in
magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by
magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a
result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage. |
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You should have received those parts:
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Please note that the sensor is only loosely fixed, as you will have to set it to correct gap. Fasten it well after adjustment. |
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| Make sure your motorcycle rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the dynamo side of the engine. Disconnect the battery and take it out of the motorcycle. | |
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Disconnect the cables from your old alternator.
Unscrew the old stator and take it off the engine. Pull the rotor off, you
will need a puller screw for this.
Disconnect the wires at the regulator and take the regulator off. Remove the wires running between alternator and regulator. All those parts will not be needed anymore. |
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On XS before 1980 take the points and governor off. They will not be used
any more.
On later XS take all electronic ignition parts off, equally further on no longer used. The new system will trigger ignition not at camshaft level, but from the crank. |
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Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not
need it anymore.
Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the taper!) |
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Check whether there is still a small dowel at the circumference of
the dynamo seat. This is part of the old dynamo arrangement preventing the
customer from installing the original unit wrong side up.
If the dowel is still there, it has to be removed (it can be pulled with a pair of pliers). If the pin is left untreated, the new plate will not be sitting level to engine and that will cause the new rotor to touch the coils, leading to total destruction of the material. |
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Place the new pre-assembled stator unit
onto the engine block.
Make sure that the yellow wire with the plug and the 2 white wires may run freely under it and inside the fastening circle of the base. |
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Screw the new base carefully down with the 2 screws M6x25 provided. DO
not use longer screws or screws with higher head.
Make sure not to damage any wires underneath the plate. There is a way cut in for the wires, but space is still quite limited for the cable. |
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Push the rubber grommet with the cable in it into the opening . Than carefully cut of the surplus rubber. |
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Timing works as follows:
At TDC position the sensor is 45 degrees (which is 41mm way on the circumference) away from the trigger plate. Should the timing marking not be really visible, make a new one by putting a strip of paper 41mm long against the right edge of the trigger plate, bent it around the rotor circumference and mark the end of the strip on the rotor. At full advance the sensor is practically with its left corner directly at the trigger plate. |
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| rotor at maximal advance (40 degrees BTDC) | rotor at TDC |
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Take the spark plugs out. Place the rotor loosely onto the crank shaft
to use it as a turning handle.
Bring the crank shaft into TDC position (that is the highest position the piston can get) of any of the 2 cylinders (does not matter which). |
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To find top dead center position (TDC) you may look at the camshaft,
points end (after removing the points plate for points based systems).
You will see the small pin in the index hole. At TDC it is straigt down
(or straight up).
Picture and idea from |
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With the crank at TDC position, take the rotor carefully off again
without changing crank position.
Than reset the rotor again onto the shaft in such away that a 41mm long paper strip finds place between the right edge of the metal trigger sign and the left edge of the sensor pin as explained above. Sure you may equally set timing at max advance. |
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Fasten the rotor with the supplied 2 washers (one aluminium, one steel) and the
special nut.
First place the aluminium spacer, than the steel washer. Take care not to change crank position while fastening. |
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Turn the rotor by hand. Check the clearance between the sensor and the
rotor's trigger nose.
It has to be 0.4mm. Adjust it by loosening the sensor's mounting screws and shifting the sensor a little. Don't forget to fasten the screws well after that. Check that the rotor runs freely above the ground plate. |
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Should you want to modify timing after an initial test run, unfasten the
rotor screw, pull the rotor and reset it - without changing the crank
position - in the needed angle.
With placing the rotor differently onto the shaft, you do not change advance range, but you modify where that range is placed (you put different starting points).
You may change the advance range as such and the speed with which full advance is reached (at what revs that happens) by switching the advance unit. |
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| Take a look at the little blue switches on at the upper front of the "Black Box" (advance unit). There are 4 little switches for choosing different spark advance curves. There is more than one option and you may choose a curve that corresponds to your requirements. You may switch even during engine run (but please not constantly as the switches are not made for too frequent change). | |
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This setting makes the system to advance very much like the stock
points system. starting at 9° beforre TDC and advancing in a linear way to 38° at 3.000rpm. We recommended to start with this setting. |
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This setup follows the same line as above, but maximal advance is not reached at already 3000 revs, but at 5000 revs only. Dont be deceived, in our experience not the best option. |
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Starts at 5°, advcances to 40° at 3000. Keeps that till 8000 and than throttles the engine back so that you can not surpass 8000 revs. |
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Starting at 4° beforre TDC and advancing in a linear way to 40° at 3.500rpm. |
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This setting starts with an advance of 24° already and advances rapidly to 36 at 3000 revs progressing than slowly to 39 at 5000 revs. |
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To disengage your new rotor again, you should use only the supplied special puller M27x1,25 (part
71 69 999 99).
Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device. This might shake the magnets off. |
| You will have to lift first the steel washer out to get the puller in. | |
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| Wiring: the systems brings its onw wiring between its components (that is alternator, regulator, advance unit and twin ignition coil.) Integration of the new system with the original one is done at the
connection to the battery (or if you drive without the wires which did run
to the battery) (see below). |
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original wiring |
new wiring |
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Mount the electronic regulator/rectifier, the advance unit, the ignition coil and the relay (so you fit that) at a convenient place, maybe with a little holding plate (not enclosed) at the frame underneath the tank. You could position the parts at ptactically any convenient place. |
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Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 92xr12: |
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To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the advance unit have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side. | ||||
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Look for the advance unit with its female plug and the three wires (red,
yellow and
white).
Put the provided 4-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the three wires (red, yellow and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:
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Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out. |
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The second plug at the advance (a male plug) will be connected to the plug at the ignition coil. This two plugs can only be connected in one position. Note the changing colour: |
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Important! Never run the high tension cable(s) and the cable(s) of the advance unit closely in parallel (say in one shielding). This will trigger back coupling that disturbes ignition and might even damage the advance unit. |
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The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug): | |||
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The two black cables leading from the generator ... |
... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current. |
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| * | The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ... |
... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis). |
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The new red cable with the round eye terminal ... Take care: |
... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30). |
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| Make sure that you have a 16A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry. | |||||
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The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...
Remark: |
... is for the charge control light.
You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to
the original regulator. |
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| The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok. | |||||
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Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.
Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!
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Switch off via separate kill switch (when driving without battery): The relay will not be fitted. The blue(/white) cable of the ignition coil will be connected to a kill switch, closing against ground (a button at the handlebars). Or you mount an ignition lock that has a facility to connect against ground when in OFF position. |
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Battery method: |
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The brown wire with the ring terminal
from pins 87a und 86 goes to ground.
The black wire from pin 85 goes to a main switch terminal carrying voltage if switched on. |
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Screw the high tension (ignition) cables ...
Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it. |
... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seals before
mounting the
coil (it will be easier).
Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable. |
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You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and
spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm).
Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even
completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor). |
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In our twin outlet coils both ends of the secondary go to the spark plugs.
Typical resistance between both exits is 6.2kOhm. Both exists fire at the same time (as many twin systems do). Sparks will be polarised however at a 180 degrees difference which might manifest when you strobe it. |
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Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected.
You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted
spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the
other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding
resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets
and make sure they are good. If in doubt, measure resistance on a hot
socket (warm it up before measuring).
Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis. |
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Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test. |
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IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often
machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly
touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed
stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here. |
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Important safety and operating information |
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Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle. |
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Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block. |
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After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely. |
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Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start
to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to
customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully. |
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The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions). |
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Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side. |
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Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics. |
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Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions. |
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When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material. |
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Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs. |
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It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion. |
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Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)! |
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Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while. |
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Please do observe these remarks, but at the same
time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of
other customers have successfully installed the system. Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart! |
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