Powerdynamo assembly instruction for administration BMW R50/2 (12V)

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00). Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

	You should have received those parts: pre-assembled stator unit rotor electronic twin ignition coil regulator/rectifier advance unit relay with cables ht-cable screws cables: red and brown cable binders
Don't be worry about the clockwise pointing arrow on the rotor. The system is made for anti-clockwise running.

Make sure your Horex rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the dynamo side of the engine. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will install a 12Volts system, so you will either need a 12Volt battery or you use the option of driving without. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12Volt ones. The horn may stay at 6Volts. For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery. If you choose to drive without the battery, you have to mount an seperate kill-switch. Or you mount another ignition lock that cut-off against ground (from a motorcycle with magneto).

Remove the left-hand engine cover from the Horex (like described in your service manual), to get access to the generator.
	Disconnect the wires from the old dynamo and take it off. Take the woodruff key from the crank pin. It will not be needed anymore and prevent assembly. If you forget this right at start, you will have to take the whole new unit off again to get access to the key. Remove all 6Volt light bulbs from head-, tail-light and speedometer light. The old horn may stay.

	The parts of the old breaker may be removed - or stay there without function. Disconnect only the wires. Now the ignition is integrated on the new generator.

	Now you have to hurt your Horex a little on a single spot. You have to cut a notch of width about 10mm for the cable exit (see blue mark at the left picture).

	Now place the pre-assembled stator unit onto the engine. For the possibility of adjusting the plate in both directions, position the 3 screws in the centre of the oblong holes. Take care to do not pinch any cable!

	Take a look at the new rotor. On its circumference you will find a protrusion (nose). This will trigger the ignition impulse. The system calculates the ignition advance by using the time the nose needs to passing the sensor's core. So the ignition happens after the complete nose had passed-by the sensor. Don't be worry about the clockwise pointing arrow on the rotor. The system is made for anti-clockwise running.

	Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the statorbase and the coils. Please check this very carefully - it is especially at the Imperator utmost narrow. Additional it happens that shafts get shorter after repairwork on them, hence the need to check. If it is so - talk to us! Check the alignment of the sensor's core and the rotor's nose. It has to be minimal 80%.

	Take the spark plugs out, turn the rotor and bring one piston into TDC position. Then turn the rotor clockwise (usually the Horex turns anti-clockwise) until the piston has dropped at point of maximal advance. (Please look at your service manual of the Horex!)

Then take the rotor carefully off again without changing the crank's position and reset it onto the crank in such a way that the right edge of the rotor's nose covers the sensor's core about 1.2mm (as shown below). In that position fasten the rotor carefully with the original nut without changing the position of the rotor or the crank. If you've changed one of this positions, you have to redo the complete adjustment. Theoretically you may alter this attitude as requested by take-off the rotor again and reset it in a desired angle.


	Remains the gap between nose and sensor core. This might be about 0.4-0.5mm. Adjust it by loosing the 2 fastening screws and shifting the sensor. Please fasten the screws very carefully, although if you did not adjusted the gap. We pre-assemble the parts only loosely. A loose sensor may damage the protrusion (resp. the rotor).

	Now put on the engine cover and check, that the rotating rotor do not touch the cover. Here it is very closely. The only way of fastening the cover is (unfortunately): You have to glue it in!

Now, the new ignition coil, the advance unit, the relay and the new regulator/rectifier have to find a convenient place on the motorcycle (e.g. by using a small holding plate - not supplied). The regulator is well dimensioned and does not need to put it into direct airflow. Here in pictures a few propositions of where to fix the parts. (Photos shown proposals on a Horex Regina!)


Before installing the advance unit, have a look at the small switches at the advance unit. They activate different characteristics. There are 4 switches activating different advance curves.
	In our view, the best curve for the Imperator is one activated by switches 2/3 to ON and 1/4 to OFF. It reaches max. advance at 3000rev/min.
	If you position the switches 1/3 to ON and 2/4 to OFF the engine will reach max. advance at 3500rev/min.

Now run the cables along the frame! Lead the new wiring the frame upwards underneath the tank. At this spot the wiring splits. Lead the two black cables to the regulator/rectifier and the remaining wires to the advance unit and further to the ignition coil. Fasten the cables using the supplied cable binders.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 92xr12:

To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the advance unit have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.

Look for the advance unit with its female plug and the three wires (red, yellow and white).

Put the provided 4-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the three wires (red, yellow and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:

red to red
yellow to yellow
white to white

Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.

The second plug at the advance (a male plug) will be connected to the plug at the ignition coil. This two plugs can only be connected in one position. Note the changing colour:

red to red
white to white
blue/white of the advance unit to yellow of the ignition coil

Important! Never run the high tension cable(s) and the cable(s) of the advance unit closely in parallel (say in one shielding). This will trigger back coupling that disturbes ignition and might even damage the advance unit.

The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.

The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...

... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).

The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...

Take care:
Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).

Make sure that you have a 16A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.

The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...

Remark:
Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.

... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator.

Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.

The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.

Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.

Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!

Note:
Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!

Switch off via separate kill switch
(when driving without battery):
The relay will not be fitted. The blue(/white) cable of the ignition coil will be connected to a kill switch, closing against ground (a button at the handlebars). Or you mount an ignition lock that has a facility to connect against ground when in OFF position.

Battery method:
Connect the brown relay wire to good ground. Lead the longer black wire from the relay to the wire that did run previously to a pin carrying voltage when the switch is on (in German bikes: pin 15) and connect it there.
Connect the blue wire from pin 30 of the relay to the blue(/white) wire at the new ignition coil.
should your battery fail on the road, just disconnect that blue wire and your bike will run again (it will now only not stop by switching off).

Relay wiring
(if used):

The brown wire with the ring terminal from pins 87a und 86 goes to ground.

The black wire from pin 85 goes to a main switch terminal carrying voltage if switched on.

Screw the high tension (ignition) cables ...

Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seals before mounting the coil (it will be easier).

Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.

You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.
Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).

In our twin outlet coils both ends of the secondary go to the spark plugs.

Typical resistance between both exits is 6.2kOhm. Both exists fire at the same time (as many twin systems do). Sparks will be polarised however at a 180 degrees difference which might manifest when you strobe it.

Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected. You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets and make sure they are good. If in doubt, measure resistance on a hot socket (warm it up before measuring).

Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis.

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

	Company	Products	Technical Help	Search


	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle