Powerdynamo pour Motobecane 175 Z 22 C

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	Pour enlever le nouveau roteur il vous fault un extracteur M27x1,25. (piece 99 99 799 00)

	Vous devriez avoir reçu ces pieces.

Débranchez la batterie et enlevez-la de la moto. remplacez chacune des ampoules de 6 volts contre ceux de 12 volts. Le klaxon peut rester. Il suffira avec 12 volts. Si vous voulez utiliser une batterie, vous devez changer cela pour une version de 12 volts. Le système est cependant tout à fait capable de courir complètement sans batterie.

Débranchez tous les câbles de votre vieux générateur. Enlevez l´ergot sur le cône au vilebrequin avec une pince. Il n'est plus nécessaire! N'oubliez pas de faire ca, autrement vous ne pourriez pas adapter le nouveau roteur correctement. Pas de crainte, l`ergot éloignée n'a pas tenu le roteur sur le vilebrequin. Il simplement vous a guidé à la synchronisation correcte.

	remplacer le joint au vilebrequin à un avec le diamètre interne de 28mm.

vous devrez faire quelques petits changements sur le carter pour que la nouvelle unité se repose à un égal et centré de niveau. vous doivent enlever environ 2mm du matériel au secteur de vis comme montré dans les images ici. à l'attache de droite supérieure vous devrez placé le buisson d'entretoise (fourni) au-dessous du plat.


mettez le nouveau plat sur le moteur, Fixez l'unité avec des goujons filetés et des ecrous comme vue ici.
notez l'inscription rouge du plat que c'est pour la synchronisation.

	Regardez le nouveau roteur. Vous trouverez sur la circonférence du rotor une inscription rouge. C'est pour la synchronisation d'allumage. Négligez le plat élevé en métal (signe) près de cette inscription c'est pour d'autres systèmes et sans pertinence avec le motobecane.

	Eliminez la bougie. Introduisez le piston dans la position d'allumage pleine avance (c'est sur la motobecane 8.1mm avant sa position plus élevée - PMH). Pour faire ceci, mettez le roteur sur l'axe et employez-le comme bouton de tour. Quand vous avez trouvé cette position, désengagez le roteur (sans changer la position du vilebrequin) et remettez-le sur l'axe de telle manière que les deux marques sont l'un sur l'autre. Dans cette position fixez le roteur. Pour désengager le roteur, employez un extracteur M27x1,25 (rien d´autre!)

Faites tourner le roteur à la main et vérifiez qu'il se déplace librement au-dessus de l'embase. Si vous avez besoin d'une position différente d'allumage, vous pouvez placer le roteur à l'agle nécessaire.

	E rotor a un long axe qu'il atteint dans le nouvel (28mm) gufero (oilseal) et fixe là contre l'huile.

	Éliminez les vieux supports pour le stateur à l'intérieur de salut du couvercle. Faites attention: le matériel est flamable (magnésium).

Fixez le nouveau régulateur, la boite electronique ( unité de commande pour changer l'avance d'allumage en fonction de la vitesse de vilebrequin) et la bobine d'allumage dans un endroit commode. Par example dans un compartiment latéral comme montré ici. Mais vous êtes libre de choisir un endroit pour les pièces.

Regardez l'unité de commande. elle a 4 petits commutateurs sur son supérieur proche du fil. avec ca, on régle des différentes characteristiques (en totale 16 versions) d'avance.
	Recommandé pour la motobecance est une position comme montré ici. 24° avec le commencement, alors linéairement sur 36° avec 3.000U/mn et plus loin à 39° avec 5.000U/mn.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 91ik-ac:
*	To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the advance unit have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.
			Look for the advance unit with its female plug and the two wires (red and white). Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect: white to white red to red
	Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.
*	The brown wires from the new generator and the advance unit with the round eye terminals ...		... have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!
*	The grey resp. green cable of the advance unit ...		... is the output of the to the ignition coil and gets connected to the single male terminal there.
*	Important! Never run the high tension cable and the cables from the generator to the advance and/or the grey wire from the advance to the ignition coil closely in parallel (say in one shielding). This will trigger back coupling that disturbes ignition and might even damage the advance unit.
*	The blue/white wire at the advance u. This is the kill (cut-off) wire. Note: Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!		Connected to ground - it will stop ignition! This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground. Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue/white wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like previously.
*			The two black cables leading from the new generator ... ... connect to the outer pins of the new regulator. It does not matter which wire connects to which of the 2 terminals as they carry alternating current. Into either of the two black wires, insert a 6A-fuse.
	*	Additional you need to contact a ground wire ...	... to the metal holder of the regulator. Otherwise the light won't function.
	*	The middle terminal of the regulator ...	... will be connected to the wires for the lighting system of the motorcycle.
*	Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ... Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.		... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier). Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.
	You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).
*	Finally - and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle