Powerdynamo, assembly instruction for ISH planeta (single)

IMPORTANT:	Please do read those instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system. Check carefully that the configuration given in our specs does correspond to what your engine expects. Wrong timing e.g. may harm your engine and/or lead to injury (violent kickbacks of starter). Be extra carefull at moment of first start and do not hesitate to modify settings should you experience abnormalalities. Our systems have NOT been tested with third party electronic components, such as ignition systems, GPS or mobile phones and might have harmfull effects on those materials.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00). Note: never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

	You should have received those parts: stator unit (preassembled) rotor regulator/rectifier ignition coil and high tension cables relay cables and cable fixers Note that the stator is only loosely fixed to its base, as you will have to disengage it for assembly.

Make sure your motorcycle rests securely on her stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that should you be installing a 12 volt system, you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones however in that case too. The horn may stay at 6 volts. For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery. Decide what sort of switch off method you want to install. There are two options, each with its advantages and disadvantages. We have pre-assembled the relay option.
Relay method (supplied as standard) advantage: This option will allow you to use your ignition switch as before. Nothing changes! disadvantage: You cannot ride without a working battery. (Unless, in an emergency you pull the brown wire bringing earth to the relay so that it has no longer contact to earth.)	Kill switch method advantage: You may drive without battery, a plus for historic bikes driven only. occationally. disadvantage: You have to buy the switch and you need to install it on the handlebar. We offer such a switch.

	Disconnect all cables from your old generator, regulator and the ignition coil and remove those parts. You may pull your old rotor from the crankshaft by means of a puller screw. Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it any more. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on in the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. it simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

	Now comes the time, to make a little change at the motor case. It's not our philosophy, but we have to do it and it's totally harmless. You have to create a little opening as the cable exit (see picture).

	Take a look at the aluminium ground plate. Here shown for better overview without the stator. A little left from the cable way through ("Kabel") you will find a half-round carve ("Markierung"). There are more of that, but meant is the farthest left of them, close to the stay. This is an ignition marking. Attention: It's only relevant, if you use the cable way through ("Kabel"), as seen here. Otherwise the marking shifts 120° clockwise.

	Unscrew the stator coil 83 screws from the base plate and lift it a little away from it (ca. 1cm) so that you can access the mounting holes. Take care not to damage the paint insulation of the coil. Put the base plate (consisting of the outer steel ring and the inner aluminium plate) into the place of your old generator and screw the plate with the help of the 2 countersunk screws M5 down. The stator coil will hang loosely.

	Put the stator coil back onto the plate, take care not the damage the wires. Make sure that the inner opening of the stator unit slots evenly over the elevated fixing rim of the base plate - otherwise the coil will sit lopsided and will touch the rotor, damaging it. Screw the coil down with the 3 hex screws M4 and tighten.

	Under no circumstances effect mechanical changes on your engine casing (but the above described cable exit opening). Do not try to assemble the new stator without the steel ring, even if you think temporarily that fitment may only be achieved that way. This comes from a wrong assumption that the stator should be fitted right down to the bottom of the engine casing. The new system will sit, as the old one did, in the recesses a little higher up. (photo shows a similar motor)

	Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a small pressed in line. That is an ignition marking. It is durable, but not well visible, so better highlighten it with some marker pen.

	Take the spark plug out and bring the piston into ignition position. At the ISH (and because of the new gasoline) ca. 2.5-3.0mm BTDC. Place the rotor loosely onto the crank, check that it may move freely above the statorbase and use it for moving the piston. Take the rotor carefully off again without changing the crank's position.

	Reset the rotor onto the crank in such a way that the marking on the rotor aligns with the marking on the stator (mounted it will shown to sit facing direction). In that position fasten the rotor carefully with the screw M7x40. (Don't forget to use the washer!) To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1,25.

	Fasten the rectifier/regulator and (if you use the relay option) the relay at aconveniend place, maybe under the seat or in the side box.

	Screw the new HT-cable into the ignition coil and fasten the coil. Leave one of the screws loose, you have to fasten a ground cable from the ignition coil harness here.Lay the new generator cable at the frame in that way, that it finished close the regulator / ignition coil (use the enclosed cable fixers). Take care that nothing's pinched.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71ir12:

To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.

Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and white).

Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:

white to white
red to red

Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.

The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye terminal have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!

The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.

The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...

... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).

The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...

Take care:
Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).

Make sure that you have a 8A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.

The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...

Remark:
Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.

... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator.

Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.

The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.

Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.

Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!

Note:
Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!

Switch off via separate kill switch
(when driving without battery):
The relay will not be fitted. The blue(/white) cable of the ignition coil will be connected to a kill switch, closing against ground (a button at the handlebars). Or you mount an ignition lock that has a facility to connect against ground when in OFF position.

Battery method:
Connect the brown relay wire to good ground. Lead the longer black wire from the relay to the wire that did run previously to a pin carrying voltage when the switch is on (in German bikes: pin 15) and connect it there.
Connect the blue wire from pin 30 of the relay to the blue(/white) wire at the new ignition coil.
Should your battery fail on the road, just disconnect that blue wire and your bike will run again (it will now only not stop by switching off).

Relay wiring
(if used):

The brown wire with the ring terminal from pins 87a und 86 goes to ground.

The black wire from pin 85 goes to a main switch terminal carrying voltage if switched on.

Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...

Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier).

Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.

You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.
Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40.000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the freshly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or even worse, before you apply changes thought to be sensible by you without having seen the system run. Our parts have been checked before delivery. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any sensible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10.000 Volts only little energy and looks therefore yellow and bulky (hence well visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40.000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form and blue in colour, which makes it not so well visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated revolutions and not already by pressing the kicklever down with your hand (as you might do with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour changes between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. For transport never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe those remarks, but at the same time, be not afraid of installation. Remember, before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

	Company	Products	Technical Help	Search


	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle