Powerdynamo for Simson AWO425 Tour/Sport (only dynamo)

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	To pull the old rotor, you will need a puller tool M10x90 (Teil Nr. 89 99 026).
	To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00 -not provided-). Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

	You should have received those parts! Please pay attention: The sensor is not screwed tight on the ground plate, it has to be adjusted by yourself. The stator is not screwed tight on the ground plate. When you mount the ground plate on the crank case, you have to remove the stator.

Make sure your bike rests securely on her stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. The system is technically capable of running without battery. But consult your local road traffic regulators.

	At first replace the old parts. Loose the 5 hex screws of the generator cover and take it off. Disconnect the cables from your old generator and remove it. Pull off the old rotor with the puller tool (pay attention: the holding screw has a couter-clockwise tap, so you have to screw clockwise for pull off).

Should have your AWO a regulator in the battery case, remove it. Remove too the cable from the centre pin of the regulator (F) to the fuse case and cut-off both other cables (51/61) so short as possible. These are death wires. If you be able and willing to pull those cables out of the harness to the motor, do it. ATTENTION: Do not remove any other cables from the AWO, especially not this from the battery positive pole to the ignition lock. You will need it further on.

	The new stator unit is pre-assembled, so that its construction is easier to recognise. For the mounting it has to be partly disassembled. Pay attention: do not damage the paint insulation of the coils. Loose the 3 hex screws they hold the stator on the ground plate. Pull the stator in that way from the plate, so you can handle the 2 mounting holes below.

	Put the pre-assembled stator plate (steel ring, aluminium plate and sensor) instead of the generator in the crank case. The sensor shows to the ground and the cable shows left up to the terminal of the ignition coil plate (if you look from the front on the unit). Screw down the ground plate (steel ring and inner aluminium plate) on the crank case with the 2 countersunk screws M6x30. The ignition coil unit hang loose on the cables further on. Now you have to replace the stator on the ground plate. Take care, that no cable is pinched. The coil has to be fitting good on the ground plate - nearly "hearable engage". If is it ain't so, and the coil fits "soft" on the ground plate, is a cable in the way and there is a risk of damaging by contact of the rotor. Screw down the stator with the 3 hex srews M6x30.

	Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the statorbase. Fasten the rotor carefully with the screw M7x40 (couter-clockwise tap). Please don't forget to use the washer. To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25.

Now you have to installate the extern parts (rectifier/regulator and the controller). You can place it beneath the tank in the frame triangle or on the sport-version in the side case. For the AWO-Tour, in case of lack of space, we have make the cables any longer. So you can hide the parts in an empty battery case (see our offer). If you like to use this option, you have to saw off one of the both stays. This is not a breach of warranty, as far as you don't saw into the case and you really only cut off the stay.


Now you have to lay the harness on the frame. At first lead the harness upwards the frame beneath the tank and then to the mounting place of the new regulator.

Please note: All our 6 Volt systems do not support the charge control function!
Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram g-only6:
*			The regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which two are not used. From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):
	*	The two black cables leading from the generator ...	... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.
	*	The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...	... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there a white wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).
	*	The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...	... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).
		Make sure that you have a 10A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.
		The 6 Volt regulator has NO provision for a charge control light!
*	Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information for dynamo only systems
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the freshly installed system the chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or even worse before you make changes thought to be sensible by you without having seen the system run. Our parts have been checked before delivery. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic regulator. You risk several damages to the inner electronic there. You will not get any sensible results from the operation anyway. Check ground connections carefully and, to be on the safe side and for testing, put an additional ground wire from the regulator directly to the engine block.
#	Never do electric welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator which is for negative earth only.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. For transport never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe those remarks, but at the same time, be not afraid of installation. Remember, before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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