Powerdynamo, assembly instruction for Morini 350 V-Twin

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

To pull the new rotor again, you need a puller M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00 -not provided-).

You have to pull the rotor for change the spark advance.

Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

You should have received those parts!

Please pay attention: the sensors are not screwed tight on the ground plate, they have to be adjusted by yourself.

Make sure your motorcycle rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the dynamo side of the engine.

Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will install a 12 volts system, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without battery. If there are bullseye indicator at your bike, you have to installate a electrolyt capacitor (min. 20.000mF/16V) for smoothing the pulsing voltage instead of the battery. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts.

It might be that your local road traffic regulations demand the existence of a parking light facility (and hence battery).

Take off the old dynamo, the two advance units and the regulator/rectifier.

Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it any more. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on in the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

Remove too the compression spring (the distance between new rotor's shaft and the drive wheel for the toothed belt amounts only 1mm).

You can see here (assembly illustrated in pictures) how to installate the new dynamo.

One of the 3 countersunk screws M6x14 has to screwed down underneath the sensor plate. That's why you have to remove the left mounting screw M3 and lift the plate for get access to that screw.

You have to turn the rotor, for getting the protrusion aligns with one of the sensors (see left). For adjusting the sensors (0.4-0.5mm), loose the two holding screws and shift it.

Now you have to do the same with the 2nd sensor.

The cables for the 1st cylinder's sensor are yellow/red coloured and for the 2nd in yellow.

Fasten the mounting screws for both sensors carefully.

Now you have to bring the piston of the front cylinder (1) in TDC (Top Dead Centre).

In this position put on the rotor in that way, that the right edge of the protrusion aligns to the centre of the cam shaft. The TDC position is at many Morini at the cam shaft marked with a little hole (cover mid edge).

(Click on the photo!)

Screw down the original mounting nut for fasten the rotor in this position. Arrange the sensor cables and fasten they by using a cable binder.

Therewith you have adjusted the ignition point alike the original system. If you think another setting would be better, you have to loose and pull-off the rotor. Then put it back on the shaft, distorted in the required angle. Theoretically should be adjusted every ignition point, but practically you would reach the motor's odds. The ignition point of the rear cylinder (2) is shifted against the front cylinder (1) about 72°.

With that you have finished the works at he motor case.

Fasten the both advance units (check at this time the setting of the switches - see below) and ignition coils (previously screw in the ht-cables) at an convenient place, maybe under the tank or the seat.

The correct advance curve for the Morini is activated with switch 3 set to "ON" and switches 1, 2 and 4 set to "OFF".

Fasten the electronic rectifier/regulator of your MZ-B-Tronics at a convenient place, maybe where the original were placed. The chassis is connected intern to minus.

You have to connect following cables for the light range!
	the 2 black cables of the dynamo harness have to connected to pins 1/4 of the regulator (AC) the enclosed red cable connected the regulator (pin 5) to battery plus the enclosed brown cable connected the regulator (pin 3) to battery minus or good ground the green/brown cable of the regulator should be connected to the charge control light (if you drive with battery, otherwise it remains idle)

The lighting circuit has no electrically connection to the ignition circuit at all.
The elctronical revolution counter won't be connected.

It could be, you like to change the ignition after a first test run. Then you have to:

take the rotor off (without changing the crank's position), by using the puller tool and
remove the rotor onto the shaft, distorted in the required angle.
If you change the rotor's position clockwise you will have more advance ignition,
anti-clockwise less advance ignition.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 9vxk12:
*	On this special circuit exist each 2 of advance units, ignition coils and sensors. If connecting the plugs, please note eventually affixed (red) markings on the plugs. These plugs shall be connected.
			Look for the advance units with its female plugs and the three wires (red, white and yellow). Connect this plugs with the two plugs of the generator with the three wires (red, white and yellow resp. yellow/red).
*	The second plugs at the advances (male plugs) will be connected to the plugs at the ignition coils. This two plugs can only be connected in one position. Note the changing colours:		red to red white of the advance units to brown of the ignition coils blue/white of the advance units to yellow of the ignition coils
*	Important! Never run the high tension cable(s) and the cable(s) of the advance units closely in parallel (say in one shielding). This will trigger back coupling that disturbes ignition and might even damage the advance unit.
*			The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):
	*	The two black cables leading from the generator ...	... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.
	*	The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...	... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).
	*	The new red cable with the round eye terminal ... Take care: Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!	... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).
		Make sure that you have a 16A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.
	*	The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ... Remark: Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.	... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator. Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.
		The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.
*	Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wires at the ignition coils. This are the kill (cut-off) wires. Note: Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wires. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!		Connected to ground - it will stop ignition! This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground. Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wires of the ignition coils will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like previously.
*	Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ... Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.		... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier). Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.
	You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).
*	Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*



Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycl

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