Powerdynamo assembly instruction for administration BMW R50/2 (12V)

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1.25 (part 99 99 799 00). Note: never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.

	You should have received those parts! Please note that the sensor is only loosely fixed, as you will have to set it to correct gap.

Make sure your BMW rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the front of the engine. You will have to turn the front wheel from time to time for better access. Drain your petrol tank into a safe canister. Make sure you do not spill petrol. Refrain from smoking. Disconnect the connecting tube under the petrol (gas) tank and take the tank off. Put it into a safe place for the duration of the works. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that you will install a 12 volts system, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without a battery. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts. You can drive your bike without a battery, but it might be that your local road traffic regulations demand the existence of a parking light facility (and hence battery). If you have installed flashers (side indicators) you will need an efficient capacitor (min 22.000µF/16V) for smoothing the pulsing voltage.

	Take off the engine's dynamo cover and disconnect the wires of the old generator and remove it complete. Disconnect the wires of the magneto and remove it complete too.

	Disconnect now the wires of the regulator and the diode plate and remove these parts and the cables that leads between them and the engine.

	Put the holding plate of the new trigger unit on the engine case at the place of the old magneto and screw it down. Take care that the screws are positioned centrical of the oblong holes (for the ignition adjustment). (The photo shows a 6V engine)

	Put the preassembled stator unit on the engine and screw it tight. The thick black coil has to shown at 11 o'clock, the cable leads to 2 o'clock (see left). Take care here too, that the screws are positioned centrical of the oblong holes. So you have an easy option for adjusting the system. Make sure that the plate sits correct and not canted in the engine attachment.

	Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the statorbase. Screw down the rotor with the screw M8x40. Don't forget to use the washer. To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1.25 (part 99 99 799 00).

	Remove the spark plugs and bring one of the pistons (it's equally which one) into TDC (top dead centre) position, not into ignition position. Easiest by using the "OT" (*) mark. You may move the pistons by turning the new installed rotor.
	(* "OT" means "Oberer Totpunkt" and that is the translation for "top dead centre"!)

	Hold the crankshaft in TDC-position and put the rotor with the trigger noses in that way onto the camshaft, that the carved-in marking on the disc aligns to the centre of the sensor. Previously you have to remove the screw M5 (transport protection). So the ignition is optimal adjusted. But you have furthermore the option to revise this alignment by turning of the whole unit between the oblong holes.

	Now you have to turn slowly by hand the rotor of your new generator until one of the noses of the camshaft trigger disc aligns to the sensor. Adjust the gap between sensor and nose by loosing (a little) the sensor's holding screws and shifting the sensor. Then fasten the screws well.

	Connect the yellow sensor cable to the yellow cable of the stator harness. To prevent damages of the cables by the rotating disc, you have to fasten the complete harness at the base plate of the trigger unit by a little clip. With that you have finished the working at the engine. Put the spark plugs back again.

	The following is an assembly proposal that you could modify! (And you have to modify it at the 51/3 and the 67 version because of the ignition coil don't fits underneath the tank. For this versions will be the system 70 81 999 00 more suitable.) The new ignition coil and the advance unit are mounted at a holding plate. This plate will be fastened at the frame underneath the tank by 3 holding clamps. Remove the 3 (only loosely preassembled) clamps from the plate. Then screw the both HT-cables into the ignition coil (it will be easier now then after the mounting).

	During the mounting of the black advance unit take a look at the little blue switching block at the upper narrow side. There are 2 miniswitches for setting the correct ignition curve. For the BMW Boxer you have to set switch 1 to "ON" and switch 2 to "OFF" (oppsite to "ON"). Otherwise your system won't function.

	Put the two larger holding clamps at the upper frame tube, direct beneath the tank. The even, closed side of the clamps have to show to the righthand side with the holes downward. The first clamp will be fixed about 15mm and the second about 170mm behind the steering head. Unhopefully the frame tube isn't round, but oval-shaped. So you have to put some rubber (or the like) beneath the clamps. Furthermore you have to compress the clamps with a pliers after the mounting at the frame. Put now the third clamp on the frame tube below, between horn and engine suspension. The even, closed side of the clamps have to show to the righthand side too, but with the hole upward.
Now locate the plate with the preassembled electronic from the lefthand side at the 3 clamps (don't between the clamp lugs) and connect all loosely by the screws. (Lead in the screw from the upper front clamp from the lefthand side and the screws for the both other clamps from the righthand side.) Now shift the clamps in that position, so nothing could scrub against the frame and the plate sits vertically a little right of the frame's centre line. Now you have to tighten all screws of the complete unit. The plate won't fit for the assembly at an R67 or R51/3. For this versions will be the system 70 81 999 00 more suitable.

	At next will be mounted the regulator/rectifier underneath the rear tank fastening by using of the provided mounting plate. Unscrew the nut (spanner 13) underneath the transverse stanchion. Put on the mounting plate with the regulator (the cooling fins showing upwards) and screw it down with the nut and the washer.

	Certainly you may position the regulator/rectifier otherwise. Maybe in the empty battery case, if you like to drive without the battery (it is possible).

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 92xk12:

To facilitate the wire exiting through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the advance unit have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.

Look for the advance unit with its female plug and the three wires (red, yellow and white).

Put the provided 4-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the three wires (red, yellow and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:

red to red
yellow to yellow
white to white

Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.

The second plug at the advance (a male plug) will be connected to the plug at the ignition coil. This two plugs can only be connected in one position. Note the changing colour:

red to red
white to white
blue/white of the advance unit to yellow of the ignition coil

Important! Never run the high tension cable(s) and the cable(s) of the advance unit closely in parallel (say in one shielding). This will trigger back coupling that disturbes ignition and might even damage the advance unit.

The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there correspondingly black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.

The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...

... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there correspondingly a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative terminal on the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground/earth (chassis).

The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...

Take care:
Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there correspondingly a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to positive terminal of the battery, or (in case you drive without battery) to the positive pin of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).

Make sure that you have a 16A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.

The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...

Remark:
Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.

... is for the charging light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator.

Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.

The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.

Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-out) wire.

Note:
Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!

Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!

This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground.

Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-out works like previously.

Screw the high tension (ignition) cables ...

Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seals before mounting the coil (it will be easier).

Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.

You will be doing yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug caps (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.
Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).

In our twin outlet coils both ends of the secondary go to the spark plugs.

Typical resistance between both exits is 6.2kOhm. Both exists fire at the same time (as many twin systems do). Sparks will be polarised however at a 180 degrees difference which might manifest when you strobe it.

Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected. You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets and make sure they are good. If in doubt, measure resistance on a hot socket (warm it up before measuring).

Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis.

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first attempt to kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments with the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle