Powerdynamo for Yamaha Twin with lighting (small shaft)

IMPORTANT:	Please do read those instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system. Check carefully that the configuration given in our specs does correspond to what your engine expects. Wrong timing e.g. may harm your engine and/or lead to injury (violent kickbacks of starter). Be extra carefull at moment of first start and do not hesitate to modify settings should you experience abnormalalities. Our systems have NOT been tested with third party electronic components, such as ignition systems, GPS or mobile phones and might have harmfull effects on those materials.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	You will need the following tools for assembly: Phillips screwdriver, Tip # 2 screwdriver, middle hex key 4/5/8/10mm spanner 8 ignition gauge 0,5mm To pull the original rotor, you will need a special puller tool
	To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00).

	You should have received those parts! stator unit (preassembled) rotor regulator/rectifier double ignition coil with holder and high-tension cable bits and pieces
Please pay attention: The sensor is not screwed tight on the ground plate, it has to be adjusted by yourself. The stator is only loosely mounted at the ground plate too, you have to remove it for the installation at the crank case.

Make sure your Rumi rests securely on her centre stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note that should you be installing a 12 volt system, you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones however in that case and the horn too (the horn won't function with DC). For driving without battery, please observe our information on driving without battery.

Disconnect all cables from your old generator, regulator and ignition coils and take these parts off. You will need for the old rotor a special puller tool.

Take a look at the preassembled ground plate (incl. the stator) and remind the construction of these component parts. That's are 3 superimposed plates (shown in the right photo without the stator coil).

Remove the 3 hex screws (1) and take the stator a little off, as you get access to the 2 countersunk hex screws M6 below (2). Remove the these 2 screws and take the steel ring (inner adapter plate) off the aluminium ring (outer adapter plate) below. Now you got access to the loosely inlaid screws M5 (3). Take care not to damage the paint insulation of the stator coils.


	Put the lower adapter plate (the open aluminium ring) on the crank case like shown on the photo. The cable exit opening shows at 10 o'clock, as prevously the original cable. The plate has to be positioned in the centering. Take care, that it not sits lopsided. Then screw it down with the 3 narrow screws M5.

	Now it's a good idea, to lead the stator cable through the cable exit opening. Previously you have to lead it through the correspondingly openings in the stator base and the steel ring. Now place the steel ring (with the sensor) and the stator base onto the lower adapter. The sensor shows at 1 o'clock. Screw down the whole unit with the 2 countersunk screws M5x35. Take care that all parts are correctly installed and nothing's lopsided.

	Now put the stator coil onto the stator base. Pull at the same time carefully at the stator cable. Take care that the adapter's edges don't damage the cable's insulation. Make sure that the inner opening of the stator unit slots evenly over the elevated fixing rim of the base plate - otherwise the coil will sit lopsided and will touch the rotor, damaging it. Screw the stator down with the 3 hex screws M6x30.

	Take a look at the new rotor, you will find at the circumference two oppositely protrusions (noses).They serve the trigger impulse. The ignition happens, as a ptotrusion reaches the sensor core. Keep in mind, that the Rumi turns anti-clockwise. (Don't worry about the clockwise-arrow at the rotor, this system is made for anti-clockwise turning!) Place the rotor onto the crank shaft. Take care that the rotor's keyway is positioned on the woodruff key of the shaft. Fasten it with the original nut.

	Take the spark plugs out. Turn the rotor carefully by hand. Check the clearance between the sensor and one of the rotor noses (it has to be 0.5mm). Adjust the clearanmce by loosing the 2 holding screws and shifting the sensor. After that you have to fasten the 2 screws well. Fasten the screws too, as the clearance is well and you haven't to loose the screws, we had mounted it only loosely. Please take care, that the rotor has no contact with or slided on the ground plate and that the rotor noses passages the sensor core aligning. It could be problematic at reconditioned crank shafts.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 72xk12:

To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.

Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the three wires (red, yellow and white).

Put the provided 4-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the three wires (red, yellow and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:

red to red
yellow to yellow
white to white

Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.

The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.

The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...

... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).

The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...

Take care:
Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).

Make sure that you have a 16A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.

The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...

Remark:
Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.

... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator.

Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.

The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.

Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.

Note:
Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!

Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!

This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground.

Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like previously.

Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...

Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier).

Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.

You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.
Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).

In our twin outlet coils both ends of the secondary go to the spark plugs.

Typical resistance between both exits is 6.2kOhm. Both exists fire at the same time (as many twin systems do). Sparks will be polarised however at a 180 degrees difference which might manifest when you strobe it.

Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected. You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets and make sure they are good. If in doubt, measure resistance on a hot socket (warm it up before measuring).

Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis.

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40.000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the freshly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or even worse, before you apply changes thought to be sensible by you without having seen the system run. Our parts have been checked before delivery. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any sensible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10.000 Volts only little energy and looks therefore yellow and bulky (hence well visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40.000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form and blue in colour, which makes it not so well visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated revolutions and not already by pressing the kicklever down with your hand (as you might do with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour changes between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. For transport never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe those remarks, but at the same time, be not afraid of installation. Remember, before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle