Powerdynamo, assembly instruction for DKW SB350

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	You should have received those parts: 3 aluminium adapter plates groundplate with pre-assembled stator coil rotor and rotor nut ignition coil and ht-cables regulator/rectifier relay with cables various screws and cable fixers grommet for cable exit

Make sure your motorcycle rests securely, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the dynamo side of the engine. Disconnect the cables from your old generator, regulator and ignition coil and remove they. Unscrew the old stator and take it off the engine. Then you have to lose the big nut of the crank shaft bearing and pull the rotor off, you will need a puller screw for this. Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it any more. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.) Take off the old stator from the rear cover plate (6 screws from the rear side). This plate is the only part, that will be needed further on.
It will be advisable to enlarge the cable exit boring (aside of the terminal) on 13mm and put in the enclosed grommet. So you have a certain and proper cable exit, without the danger of fraying a cable.

	Now you have the "empty" motor block, rid of the complete generator. Use it for a little inspection and clean-up.

	Take now the new lower (larger) adapter plate. The plate has many drill holes (on the top-side are 3 countersunk holes M7).

	To enable the use of the original SB350 cover, the backplate of the dynamo has to be set a little away from the engine. Whilst the new base plate will sit directly against the engine casing, the DKW cover plate will come to sit a little away from that in a position shown here.

	Put the lower adapter plate on the old DKW cover plate (emptied by the old stator) and screw it down with the 6 hex-countersunk screws M6. It's possible to shift the adapter position in 120° paces. Please take care, that the 3 holes for the mounting screws have passage through the plate.

	Put this pre-assembled plate on the motor (like the old was previously mounted) and screw down this unit with the 3 hex screws M7. Do not forget to use the enclosed lockwashers (one per screw). We observed, that the tapped holes has different depth. Maybe you have to use 1-2 spacers 8x1 per screw (6 pieces enclosed).

	Replace the bearing nut on the crank shaft and screw it down carefully. The following steps can be done with the nut fitted.

	Take the medium adapter plate (see left) and put it on the lower adapter plate. On the top-side are 3 countersunk holes M6. The inner sideways opening (properly not used in this system) has to shown to 4 o'clock, anyway a little beneath of the cable exit hole of the DKW plate.

	Now the upper adapter plate (with the sideways cable opening on the unit): Put it on in that way, that this opening is over that one of the DKW plate and one of the both hole-pairs are congruent with the tapped hole in the middle adapter.

	Now is the right time to place the new stator coil. The stator coil is pre-assembled on the ground plate. You have to remove the 3 screws M4. Then lift-off carefully the coil a little (Don't damage the paint insulating!) until you have access to the 3 mounting holes of the ground plate. Lead the cable through the sideways opening of the upper adapter. There are 2 cable openings in the plate. It's important for the ignition adjusting, to use the with an "X" marked. (The unit is pre-assembled in that way!)

Scrutinize the ground plate of the stator at the cable opening. You will find there many little indentations. The plainest and furthest left (by the firming stay) is an ignition marking. (see picture below)
	Because this marking is not visible, if the rotor is assembled, we have transfered this marking to the upper adapter. The ground plate has two hole-pairs. If you screw down the plate, take care, that the above named marking is align with the transfered marking. Otherwise the ignition will not function. (The red line is only on the picture, not on the adapter plates.)

	Replace the stator coil on the ground plate. Best push the coil gently down and pull at the same time at the wire from rear (cable exit opening) - little by little until the unit sits properly. At the end, the coil will sort of snap in sharply, even with some noticable click. If it sits down rather softly, that you can bet there is a wire underneath. Screw down the coil with the 3 hex screws M4.

Lead the cable from the front through the enlarged cable exit hole (with the grommet) to the rear side.

Remove the spark plugs to ease turning of the crank. Bring the piston into ignition position. As the SB manual it has to be 4.5mm BTDC. But in case of the new fuels and this ignition system, it has to be better 3.5mm BTDC.
	Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a small red point (drilled) marking. You will find on the upper adapter such a marking too. These are ignition markings. Now press the rotor onto the crank in such a way, that the marking on the rotor is align with the marking on the adapter. If there is any change in the crank's (ignition) position, you have to start again. In that position fasten the rotor carefully with the enclosed tubular nut M16.

	To pull the new rotor again, you will need the enclosed puller tool M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00). Relocate the spark plugs.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71ir12:

To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.

Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and white).

Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect:

white to white
red to red

Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.

The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye terminal have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!

The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.

The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...

... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).

The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...

Take care:
Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).

Make sure that you have a 8A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.

The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...

Remark:
Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.

... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator.

Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.

The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.

Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire.

Connected to ground - it will stop ignition!

Note:
Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!

Switch off via separate kill switch
(when driving without battery):
The relay will not be fitted. The blue(/white) cable of the ignition coil will be connected to a kill switch, closing against ground (a button at the handlebars). Or you mount an ignition lock that has a facility to connect against ground when in OFF position.

Battery method:
Connect the brown relay wire to good ground. Lead the longer black wire from the relay to the wire that did run previously to a pin carrying voltage when the switch is on (in German bikes: pin 15) and connect it there.
Connect the blue wire from pin 30 of the relay to the blue(/white) wire at the new ignition coil.
Should your battery fail on the road, just disconnect that blue wire and your bike will run again (it will now only not stop by switching off).

Relay wiring
(if used):

The brown wire with the ring terminal from pins 87a und 86 goes to ground.

The black wire from pin 85 goes to a main switch terminal carrying voltage if switched on.

Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ...

Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier).

Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.

You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.
Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*




	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your classic bike