Powerdynamo, assembly instruction for Minsk 125 Motor Sport (ignition)

IMPORTANT:	Designated use This system is exclusively designated to replace stock ignition systems in vintage and classic motorcycles for sports (competition) applications and NOT for use on public roads. Note that the system does not offer any lighting capability. Still, this system is not a tuning system and equally not a system for already tuned engines. It expects engines, the characteristics of which have not been modified aftermarket as will this system not change those characteristics significantly. It does however, compared with the aging stock system, increase reliability.
	Please read these instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle. Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. Wrong ignition settings may damage your engine and even hurt you during kickstart (violent kickbacks). Be carefull during the first testruns. If needed change settings to safer values (less advance).
	Our systems are NOT tested for use with third party electronic devices and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our information for suitable solutions.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz

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Connect the parts as shown here:

This is very simple. The cable from the stator has 2 plugs in different sizes. The ignition coil has 2 suitable terminals. Put the plugs onto the suitable terminals. Confusing the plugs will destroy the coil!
The free end of the small sideways connected wire is the wire for the kill switch. When that is connected to ground, ignition will stop. Here you connect your OFF-switch which closes against ground when activated.

Screw the high tension cables into the ignition coil and place the rubber seals over the exits. It's more easier if you do that before mounting the coil. Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cables.

You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.

Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor). Further, please do not use any spark amplifying cable, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wires". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

In our twin outlet coils both ends of the secondary go to spark plugs.

Typical resistance between both exits is 6.2kOhm. Both exists fire at the same time (as many twin systems do). Sparks will be polarised however at a 180 degrees difference which might manifest when you strobe it and which can show with some amount of carbonisation at the spark plug getting the positive spark. This is however not a serious problem and, unfortunately, it can not be helped..

Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected. You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets and make sure they are good (if in doubt, measure resistance on a hot socket (warm it up before measuring).

Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work. The use of 2 individual ignition coils is not possible on this system.

Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis.

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

Please note: The crankshaft speed needed to get the system sparking is with about 500 revs/min quite high. If you simply turn the rear wheel of your lifted vehicle to check spark, you will not get any.
You need fast kickstart action or better still push-starting the bike.

	Important safety and operating information for sports systems of type 71 00
	The material has been exclusively made for sports purposes and is NOT destined for use on public roads!
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40.000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block to earth the output.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (both stator and ignition coil). You risk severe damag to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor and your spark plugs and spark plug sockets might be the reason for malfunction (even if absolutely new). The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any mistake in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, better put an additional wire between engine block and metal frame of the ignition coil.
#	The shaft speed needed to start ignition is relatively high with about 500revs/min. Simply turning the lifted rear wheel will not produce a spark. You need rapid kickstarter movement or better still pushstart.
#	There are systems destined for clockwise and there are systems destined for anticlockwise run of the crankshaft. Confusing the 2 senses will mean you have no spark. You may check for what sense your system has been made by the colour of its wires. # a black/red wire: clockwise # a white/red wire: anticlockwise
#	The spark of classical, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and faty (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speeds and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get on classic systems).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off.
#	When connecting the ignition coil double check that you put the wires to the correct pins. (One is smaller). If you confuse them, the high tension for the condenser charge will kill the input switch
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables. Never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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