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Assembly instructions for PD systems with ignition only

 version 04.04.2012

You should have received those parts:

  • pre-assembled stator unit

  • rotor (flywheel)
  • electronic ignition coil and ht-cable (no resistor)
  • crankshaft nut M18 und 2 washers
  • plug housings

Make sure your Bultaco rests securely on her stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. Note that you will install a 12 volts system, so you will need to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones.
Disconnect the wires from the old magneto. Pull all wires out of the engine housing.

Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it any more. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on in the assembly. (Remark: This woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. it simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

picture shows one type of Bultaco magneto, there have been others.


To our knowledge, there are two versions of how the alternator cable is led out of the engine! The left image shows how the cable is led to the front and the right image shows the version in which the cable goes out at engine bottom.

We have therefore provided two options for cable management in our material. We pre-assemble the one shown here to the left with valid red marking. 

Should you want to use the other wire exit please take the three stator fastening-screws off, pull out the stator from the support set it again with the wire through the other opening. Make sure to secure it again with three screws M4x25! Please make sure that the stator comes to sit evenly and that no wires are pinched somewhere.

Now the other marking is to be used.  In any case it is always the marking left to the 2 smaller black coils.




Place the pre-assembled stator unit onto the engine's magneto seat and screw it down there with the 3 screws M5.

Lead the wire from the new generator through the wire opening of the engine upwards along the frame (or downwards).




Have a look at the new stator. You will find a little left to the 2 smaller black coils the ignition marking.


Have a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference equally some marking ( a pressed or lasered in line). 

Both markings have to align at the moment of ignition.

Take the spark plug out. Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the statorbase. 

Bring the piston into ignition position. Take the value for this from your manual. Should you not find any guidance for this value, try 2-2.5mm BTDC). If needed correct this value after first engine run experiences.

Take the rotor carefully off again without changing the crank's position and reset it onto the crank in such a way that the marking on the rotor aligns with the marking on the stator. In that position fasten the rotor carefully with the provided new fastening nut and the 2 washers provided.

Make sure not to alter the crank's position during that operation, otherwise you have to redo the procedure.


Remark: To get maximum flexibility no groove has been put into the rotor. No need to worry over the now lost woodruff key. It did not have an arresting capacity, it was guiding to correct ignition settings. Now you have the markings and a much greater flexibility.

Now you have adjusted the ignition on standard value. Theoretical you can adjust that in any required position, you have only to turn the rotor (without changing the crank shaft position). 


To disengage your new rotor again, use only a puller M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00).

Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.




Fasten the ignition coil on the frame of the motorcycle, best there, where the original coil was.

As position of the fastening holes might not exactly match you might need to make some adaptation.