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Assembly instructions for system 70 83 999 00

Version 07.09.2010
You should have received those parts:
  • main generator body with pre-asembled stator coils and cover holder plate
  • flywheel (rotor)
  • regulator/rectifier
  • electronic advance unit
  • ignition coil
  • HT cable, fastening screws

Do not take the stator coil from the base. You only risk to damage it.

To pull the old rotor, you will need a puller tool M8x90 (part-number: 70 80 899 90 -Not provided-).
To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00 -Not provided-).

Note: Never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, except a M27x1.25 puller. You risk rotor damage.
Make sure your bike rests securely on her stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. You will have to move the front fork for better access to the generator.

Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note, that you will be installing a 12 volt system, so you will either need a 12 volt battery or you use the option of driving without. You will still have to replace all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts. For driving without battery, please note our information on driving without battery.

 
Take the generator cover off and disconnect all wires running to the dynamo. Normally that should be:
  • a blue cable on pin 61
    (to the ignition control lamp)
  • a thick black cable on pin 30
    (to the positive pole of the battery)
  • a thick red cable on pin 51
    (to the ignition lock)
  • a black (R25/2 black/red) cable on pin 15
    (to the ignition lock)
  • the high tension cable to the spark plug.

Pull all the cables out of the motor case, but do not cut them off.
After fitment of the new ignition parts rewire as follows:

Note that:

Rewiring depends a little on your specific situation, that is

  • if you drive with battery
  • if you have a pin 2 on your main switch
  • if your stock wiring is still in ok condition
  • the blue wire at generator terminal 61 gets connected to the green/red of the new regulator (so you drive with battery) This is for the charge control light. For use without battery insulate that wire and keep it idle.
  • the heavy red wire at generator terminal 51 (which runs to the headlights main switch) is either

    # bridged to the heavy black running formerly to terminal 30
    # led directly to the battery (plus terminal!)
  • the heavy black wire at generator terminal 30 (which runs to the battery plus) is either

    # bridged to the heavy red (see above) or
    # deleted
  • the red/black wire from pin 15 is either

    # deleted if you do not need to install the relay (because you have a pin 2 at your main switch or you drive without battery or
    # led and connected to the black of the new relay (so it is used)
  • the heavy brown wire (ground) which is attached to the ground terminal next to the negative (-) brush secure to some good ground connection (best directly battery minus)

Integration between the original general electric system (lighting, horn etc.) and the new system is at the battery (or should you drive without at the wires normally running to the battery).

Take the central screw off, that holds the stock rotor and the centrifugal governor on the crank shaft. Remove the centrifugal governor. Put the vehicle into first gear to get some resistance to the movement.

Take the three mounting screws off which fix the dynamo body to the engine and take it off. You might need a few gentle strokes with a rubber-headed mallet to get it off.
To pull the rotor, you will need the puller tool M8x90. Alternatively you may, as it was advised in the older original instructions manual: "... introduce a steel pin (40mm x 5.5mm) into the central fastening hole and than follow it by a screw M8."

Take the woodruff key from the crank. You will not need it any more. Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on the assembly. (Remark: this woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the taper. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

Have a look at the new stator body. You will find there on the top of the side wall a little red marking. As here encircled red.

This is an ignition marking.

Take a look at the new rotor. You will find on its circumference a red marking as well.

Again anignition marking.

With the crank in TDC position (that is the highest the piston will get) both markings should align.

Place the pre-assembled new generator unit onto the engine and fasten it there with the 3 screws M5x50 provided.
Remove the spark plug. Place the rotor loosely onto the crank and check that it may move freely above the stator. Bring the piston in top dead centre position (TDC), the highest position of the piston. To help this, place the new rotor handtight onto the crank for turning the shaft.
Once TDC is found, take the rotor carefully off again without changing the crank's position.

Than, reset it onto the crank in such a way that the marking on the rotor aligns with the marking on the base. If there is any change in the crank's position, you have to start again.
Fasten the rotor carefully with the hex screw M8x35 (Please don't forget to use the washer). Screw the spark plug back in the cylinder.

Now you have adjusted the ignition on standard value. Theoretical you can adjust that in any position, you only have to set the rotor differently relative to the crank.

  • turning the rotor clockwise - brings an earlier ignition
  • turning the rotor anticlockwise - brings a later ignition

If you experiment with settings, please check what you are doing by help of a stroboscope. Pleas know that wrong settings may damage the engine and produce violent kickbacks of the starter which might hurt you.

Place the cover holding plate back as you have seen before assembly.

Fasten the new ignition coil beneath the petrol tank or on the frame.

This may vary from type to type.

You will also have to fasten the new regulator/rectifier and the advance unit (the black box) on your bike.

If you opt to drive without an battery, you can place the parts into an empty battery case.

For the installation in an battery case you have to cut off a mounting lug from the advance unit. This is not considered a breach of warranty, as long as you do not cut into the box itself.
Have a look at the little blue dip-switch block on the upper narrow side of the advance unit. There are 4 little  switches selecting individual ignition advance curves.
The curve for the R25/26 is activated as shown here.
That brings full ad vance of 40° at 3000 revs/min.
Should you want to have full 40° advance only at 3.500 revs onwards use this setting.
In our experience full advance from 3000 onwards as indicated above is the better solution.

Switch-off relay ??

 With the pack comes a relay. For its wiring see further below.

As later R25 and (normally) all R26 have a main switch that sports an (unused) pin 2, the blue kill wire from the advance may be directly connected to this pin 2 with the relay completely left out.

For a wire diagram without relay see diagram 91ik12.