Powerdynamo für Peugeot 125 LC

IMPORTANT:	Designated use This system is designated to replace stock dynamo/alternator & ignition systems in vintage and classic motorcycles whose engine characteristics have not been modified aftermarket. This system is not a tuning system and it will not bring significant increases in engine output. It does however significantly enhance roadworthiness and comfort by offering better lighting, better function of side indicators and horn and, compared with the aging stock systems, increased reliability. As our system does not tamper with engine characteristics it does not increase emission of gasous pollutants and noise. In most cases emission of pullutants should even be reduced due to better combustion. If used as designated the system therefore will not normally infringe the existing legal status of the motorcycle (this statement is valid for Germany, for other countgries, please check locally against your road licencing regulations). This system is not suitable for use in competition events. If used other than the designated way, warranty will be voided and it might well be that you do not obtain the desired results or, worst you loose legal roadworthiness.
	Please read these instructions fully and carefully before starting work on your motorcycle Please bear in mind that any modification of the material as well as own repair attempts which have not been agreed with Powerdynamo may result in a loss of warranty. Also, please take note of the information provided on the information page for this system. Check that what you have bought really corresponds to the motorcycle you have. Wrong ignition settings may damage your engine and even hurt you during kickstart (violent kickbacks). Be carefull during the first testruns. If needed change settings to safer values (less advance). During assembly check carefully that the rotor (flywheel) does not touch the stator coils or anything else, which may happen due to various circumstances and lead to severe damage.
	Our systems are NOT tested for use with other third party electronic devices and may cause damage to such parts. Possibly existing electronic tachometers will not work with the new system. Read our information for suitable solutions.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle, possibly even lead to bodily harm.
	Before you order a system, please check whether a puller tool for the new rotor is included in the kit. If not, better order it at the same time. You might want to order light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than the recommended puller tool to pull the new rotor again. Damage to the rotor as a result of use of other tools or methods is not covered by warranty.
	The rotor is sensible to blows (including during transport). Before assembly, please always check for damage (on rotor with non encasted magnets try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor solely by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During engine run the result would be considerable. Before placing the rotor onto the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected any metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.
	If you have access to the Internet, best view those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz

	Um den neuen Rotor wieder abzuziehen benötigen Sie einen Abzieher M27x1,25 (Teil 99 99 799 00). ACHTUNG: bei Verwendung eines Klauenabziehers lösen sich die Magnete im Rotor!

	Diese Teile sollten Sie erhalten haben: vormontierte Statoreinheit Rotor elektron. Zündspule und Zündkabel Regler/Gleichrichter (anderer als auf Bild) Kabel blau (Ausschaltkabel) 3 Schrauben M5x10 3 Distanzscheiben

Stellen Sie sicher, dass Ihr Motorrad fest steht, vorzugsweise auf einer erhöhten Montageplattform steht und Sie guten Zugang zur Lichtmaschinenseite haben.

	Lösen Sie alle zur alten Lichtmaschine und der Zündspule führenden Kabel und entfernen Sie diese Teile. Sollten sich am Gehäuse irgendwelche Adapter für alternative Lichtmaschinen befinden, bitte auch diese entfernen, bis das Gehäuse so wie hier gezeigt leer ist. Entfernen Sie bitte auch die Paßfeder an der Kurbelwelle. Sie wird nicht mehr benötigt und stört im weiteren Montageverlauf. Foto zeigt anderen Motor

	Entfernen Sie die 3 Schrauben, die den neuen Stator auf seiner Grundplatte halten und ziehen Sie ihn etwas von der Platte weg, so daß Sie Zugang zu den Befestigungslöchern darunter erhalten. Achten Sie darauf, die Lackisolierung der Spulendrähte nicht zu beschädigen. Setzen Sie die Platte anstelle der früheren Lichtmaschine auf das Kurbelgehäuse. Die dicke schwarze Spule weist in Richtung Kabelausgang. Befestigen Sie die Platte mit den drei Schrauben M5x10. Achten sie darauf, das Kabel nicht einzuklemmen!

Weil die Zündmarke auf der Grundplatte nach Aufsetzen des Rotors nicht mehr sichtbar ist müssen Sie einen anderen Referenzpunkt suchen (markieren). Wir empfehlen dazu die Platte so zu montieren, das die Markierung an der linken Kante der Statorhalterung steht, wie hier gezeigt.


	Setzen Sie den Stator wieder auf die nun am Motor verschraubte Grundplatte. Die Spule muss dort recht hart einrasten. Setzt Sie nur weich auf die Platte auf, ist mit großer Sicherheit ein Kabel darunter eingeklemmt! Stellen Sie sicher, daß der Stator gerade auf der Platte sitzt und keine Kabel eingeklemmt sind - ansonsten kommt es zur Zerstörung der Anlage oder zumindest Fehlfunktionen. Verschrauben Sie den Stator wieder mit den 3 Schrauben M4.

Zündungseinstellung Zur größtmöglichen Flexibilität der Zündeinstellung wurde auf eine Anpassung des Rotors auf der Kurbelwelle per Paßfeder und Nut verzichtet. Es besteht dennoch (wenn der Konus korrekt ist) keine Gefahr eines unbeabsichtigten Lösens oder Verdrehens des Rotors, der ohnehin stets durch den Konus, nie die Paßfeder gehalten wird. Dieser hat nur eine Führungsfunktion zum Aufsetzen des richtigen Zündzeitpunktes.
	Sehen Sie sich den neuen Rotor an. Auf seinem Umfang finden Sie eine kleine rote Markierung. Das ist eine Zündeinstellmarke. Achtung: der Rotor hat eine weitere Markierung, einen eingepressten Strich der ohne Bedeutung ist.

Stecken Sie den neuen Rotor zum Drehen der Kurbelwelle handfest auf. Sie können damit die Kurbelwelle drehen.
	Zum Messen der Kolbenposition benötigen Sie ein Werkzeug (eine Meßuhr oder einen Meßstab, den man z.B. aus einer alten Zündkerze anfertigen kann. Zur großen Not geht aber auch ein Bleistift und etwas Augenmaß). Entfernen Sie die Zündkerze und bringen Sie den Kolben in den oberen Totpunkt (hier 0.T.). Das ist die höchste Stellung, die der Kolben im Zylinder erreichen kann. Da das Polrad bei diesem System im Lauf nach links dreht müssen Sie es jetzt etwas nach rechts (d.h. in Uhrzeigerrichtung) drehen, bis der Kolben auf der notwendige Maß der Frühzündung abgesunken ist
Den Wert dafür entnehmen Sie bitte Ihrem Handbuch (wenn keine Werte zur Verfügung stehen, probieren Sie es mit 2mm vor OT, beschaffen Sie sich dann aber unbedingt die korrekten Werte und korrigieren Sie die Einstellung entsprechend). Falsche Einstellungen führen zu Überhitzung, im Extremfalle sogar zum Durchbrennen des Kolbenbodens.
	Wenn Sie die Zündposition gefunden haben, nehmen Sie den neuen Rotor vorsichtig wieder ab und stecken Sie ihn wieder so auf, daß die Markierung auf der Außenseite des Rotors auf Höhe der Markierung auf der Grundplatte des Stators zu stehen kommt.

Foto zeigt anderen Motor	Verschrauben Sie den Rotor mit der originalen Befestigungsmutter. Sie werden alle oder einige der mitgelieferten Unterlegscheiben unterlegen müssen. Prüfen Sie abschließend sehr sorgfältig, daß sich der Rotor frei über der Platte und über der Spule dreht und nicht etwa durch geänderte mechanische Verhältnisse am Motor (Modifikationen an Gehäuse und/oder Welle) schleift. Ein Schleifen führt mit Sicherheit zur Zerstörung der Anlage. Prüfen Sie auch vor dem Aufsetzen des Rotors ob dessen Magneten nicht irgendwelche Schrauben oder andere Kleinteile aufgesammelt haben, die dann Schaden anrichten könnten.

Befestigen Sie nun die neue Zündspule und den neuen Regler an einem geeigneten Ort. Zweckmäßigerweise mit an der Halteschelle der Zündspule. Lassen Sie eine der Halteschrauben der Zündspule noch locker, hier kommt noch ein Massekabel drauf. Verlegen sie das neue Lichtmaschinenkabel mit Hilfe der beiliegenden Kabelbinder so am Rahmen, daß es mit allen Kabeln auf Höhe Regler/Zündspule endet. Achten Sie darauf, daß nichts scheuern kann.
	(Fotos zeigen anderes Motorrad)

Connect the parts as shown in the respective wiring diagram! For our standard DC regulator (95 22 699 06), use the wiring diagram 71ik12: For our DC regulator with built in smooting condenser (73 00 799 50), use the wiring diagram 71ik_102:
*	To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.
		Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and white). Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect: white to white red to red
	Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.
	The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye terminal have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!
*	Connecting Powerdynamo alternator to lighting circuit (via regulator):
		The 2 black wires running from the stator coil carry the voltage for lights, horn, flashers etc. They have nothing to do with ignition. This voltage (something between 10 and 50 volts AC) has however to be stabilized (regulated) and for most uses rectified into direct current (DC) as it primarily is alternating current (AC). For this we offer 2 different regulators:
	Attention: Any confusion between plus and minus (with the DC versions) leads to immediate destruction of the regulator. This will not constitute a warranty case as it is negligence! One can recognize a burnt regulator mostly by its sharp smell.
*	Regulator type 1: with standard DC regulator (95 22 699 06), use the wiring diagram 71ik12:
*		The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used. A female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):
	The two black cables leading from the generator ...	... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.
	The new brown cable with the round eye terminal ...	... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).
	The new red cable with the round eye terminal ... Take care: Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!	... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).
	Make sure that you have a 8A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.
	The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ... Remark: Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.	... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator. Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.
	The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.
*	Regulator type 2: with DC regulator with built in smooting condenser (73 00 799 50), use the wiring diagram 71ik_102:
		the 2 black (sw) wires are the AC input from the alternator (as it is AC it does not matter which black to which black) the red (rt) wire is the 12V DC output plus the brown (br) wire is gound, internally connected to housing
*	Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire. Note: Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!	Connected to ground - it will stop ignition! This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground. Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like previously.
*	Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ... Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.	... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier). Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.
*	You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).
*	Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40,000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the newly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or what is worse is to apply changes to customize the firing point before running the system. Our parts have been checked before delivery to you. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any tangible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10,000 Volts with little energy and looks therefore yellow and fat (hence it's visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40,000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form, and blue in colour, which makes it not so visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated speedss and not by pushing the kicklever down slowly with your hand (as you might get with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed/grounded. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric arc welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all parts containing semiconductors (ignition coil, regulator, advance) stator and rotor need not be taken off.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour differs between wires it is expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. When transporting never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe these remarks, but at the same time, don't be afraid of the installation process. Remember, that before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle