Powerdynamo, Anleitung für Lambretta 125 F

IMPORTANT:	Please do read those instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	Um den neuen Rotor abzuziehen benötigen Sie einen Abzieher M27x1,25 (Teil Nr. 99 99 799 00). ACHTUNG: bei Verwendung eines Klauenabziehers lösen sich die Magnete im Rotor!

	Diese Teile sollten Sie erhalten haben. Stator (vormontiert) Rotor elektronische Zündspule Wechselstromregler Zündkabel 3 Schrauben M4 2 Kabelbinder Kabel blau (Ausschaltkabel)

Stellen Sie sicher, dass Ihre Lambretta fest auf dem Ständer steht, vorzugsweise auf einer erhöhten Montageplattform, und dass Sie guten Zugang zur Lichtmaschinenseite des Motors haben. Entfernen Sie alle 6 Volt Birnen aus Scheinwerfer, Tachobeleuchtung und Rücklicht.
	Lösen Sie nun alle Kabel an Ihrer alten Lima und entfernen Sie diese. Sollte auf dem Kurbelwellenstumpf eine Paßfeder (Stift) sein, nehmen Sie diesen bitte mit einer Zange ab. Sie wird nicht mehr benötigt! Bitte nicht vergessen sonst müssen Sie die Lima später noch einmal herausnehmen. Keine Angst, die entfernte Passfeder hatte nicht die Aufgabe den Rotor zu sichern, sonder nur zu verhindern, dass er falsch angesteckt wird.

	Entfernen Sie die 3 Schrauben, die den neuen Stator auf seiner Grundplatte halten und ziehen Sie ihn etwas von der Platte weg, so daß Sie Zugang zu den Befestigungslöchern darunter erhalten. Achten Sie darauf, die Lackisolierung der Spulendrähte nicht zu beschädigen. Setzen Sie die Platte anstelle der früheren Lichtmaschine auf das Kurbelgehäuse. Befestigen Sie die Platte mit den drei Schrauben M4x10. Achten sie darauf, das Kabel nicht einzuklemmen! (Foto zeigt ähnlichen Motor)

	Setzen Sie den Stator wieder auf die nun am Motor verschraubte Grundplatte. Die dicke schwarze Spule zeigt dabei etwa in Richtung Kabelausgang. Die Spule muss dort recht hart einrasten. Setzt Sie nur weich auf die Platte auf, ist mit großer Sicherheit ein Kabel darunter eingeklemmt! Stellen Sie sicher, daß der Stator gerade auf der Platte sitzt und keine Kabel eingeklemmt sind - ansonsten kommt es zur Zerstörung der Anlage oder zumindest Fehlfunktionen. Verschrauben Sie den Stator wieder mit den 3 Schrauben M4.

Zündungseinstellung Zur größtmöglichen Flexibilität der Zündeinstellung wurde auf eine Anpassung des Rotors auf der Kurbelwelle per Paßfeder und Nut verzichtet. Es besteht dennoch (wenn der Konus korrekt ist) keine Gefahr eines unbeabsichtigten Lösens oder Verdrehens des Rotors, der ohnehin stets durch den Konus, nie die Paßfeder gehalten wird. Dieser hat nur eine Führungsfunktion zum Aufsetzen des richtigen Zündzeitpunktes.
	Sehen Sie sich den neuen Rotor an. Auf seinem Umfang finden Sie eine kleine eingepresste Strichmarkierung. Das ist eine Zündeinstellmarke. Diese ist durch die Einpressung dauerhaft aber eingebaut nicht immer gut zu sehen. Ein Nachziehen mit Faserstift ist daher eine gute Idee. Hinweis: Lassen Sie sich nicht durch den auf den Rotor aufgebrachten, in Uhrzeigerrichtung weisenden Pfeil irritieren. Das System ist für Linkslauf gemacht!

(Achtung, dort gibt es 2 weitere Marken, aber ohne Farbe und nicht auf Höhe der kleinen schwarzen Spulen)	Sehen Sie sich die Grundplatte an. Auch hier finden Sie auf dem Umfang eine kleine rot eingefärbte Markierung. ACHTUNG: Der Stator ist theoretisch auf der Grundplatte in 2 Stellungen montierbar (2 Kabeldurchbrüche). Wenn Sie den Spulenkörper ganz von der Grundplatte genommen haben, achten Sie darauf, ihn wieder in seine richtige Position zu bringen, sonst stimmt die Zündung nicht und ist um 120 Grad versetzt! Praktisch wird dies aber kaum geschehen, denn dann zeigt Ihr Kabel nicht in Richtung Kabelausgang am Motor.

(Markierung hier weiß hervorgehoben)	Entfernen Sie die Zündkerze und bringen Sie den Kolben in Zündposition. Das könnten z.B. 2mm vor OT sein. Stecken Sie dazu relativ lose den neuen Rotor auf. Sie können damit die Kurbelwelle drehen. Halten Sie die Stelle des Zündzeitpunktes, nehmen Sie den neuen Rotor vorsichtig wieder ab und stecken Sie ihn so wieder auf, daß die Markierung auf der Außenseite des Rotors auf Höhe der Markierung auf der linken Seite der Statorplatte zu stehen kommt. Legen Sie die originale Unterlegscheibe unter und verschrauben Sie den Rotor mit der originalen Mutter.

	Befestigen sie die neue elektronische Zündspule am Rahmen des Motorrades, vorzugsweise dort, wo schon die originale Zündspule war. (Bild zeigt ähnliches Motorrad)

	Befestigen sie den elektronischern Regler an einer der Halterungen im Rahmenvorderteil.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram 71ik-ac:
*	To facilitate wire exit through the often small openings in the engine casing, the plastic plug of the generator's wiring that leads to the ignition coil have not been put onto the wire terminal. You should place the plug there only once all has been properly installed on the engine side.
			Look for the ignition coil with its female plug and the two wires (red and white). Put the provided 2-position plug housing onto this plug and insert the two wires (red and white) from the generator. Make sure that the terminals engage securely in the housing and that you connect: white to white red to red
	Should you need (or want) to get the terminals out of the plug housing again, enter a paper clip from front next to the terminals and push the little barb aside. Than pull the wire out.
	The brown wire from the new generator with the round eye terminal have to be screwed to the holder frame of the ignition coil (ground). This connection is very important. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!
*			The two black cables leading from the new generator ... ... connect to the outer pins of the new regulator. It does not matter which wire connects to which of the 2 terminals as they carry alternating current. Into either of the two black wires, insert a 10A-fuse.
	*	Additional you need to contact a ground wire ...	... to the metal holder of the regulator. Otherwise the light won't function.
	*	The middle terminal of the regulator ...	... will be connected to the wires for the lighting system of the motorcycle.
*	Remains the blue (sometimes blue/white) wire at the ignition coil. This is the kill (cut-off) wire. Note: Should you experience ignition failures, disconnect as a first measure this blue wire. In many cases that will permit you to get mobile again (particulars see: technical help)!		Connected to ground - it will stop ignition! This type of wiring is used in motorcycles which originally already had magneto ignition and therefore switched off by shortcircuiting against ground. Those vehicles have by design a main lock (or some kill switch) that connects a pin to ground when in OFF position (German bikes: pin 2). The blue(/white) wire of the ignition coil will be connected here. In that way the cut-off works like previously.
*	Screw the high tension (ignition) cable ... Please do not use any spark amplifying cables, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wire". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.		... into the ignition coil and pull over the rubber seal before mounting the coil (it will be easier). Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cable.
	You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables. Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor).
*	Finally - and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check light bulbs for correct voltage (12V). Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.
*	IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure. For more details and how to check see (online) here.

Important safety and operating information for alternating current (AC) only systems

Practically, the DC regulator (rectifier/regulator) is the better solution. It will take higher loads and is more versatile in use.

The advantage of the AC regulator is in its smallness. This comes in handy in:

vintage motorcycles, where you have a problem to "hide" the rather large DC regulator. The AC regulator could be possibly even mounted inside the headlight casing.
"pure off-road" motorcycles, where you need only some rudimentary electric system and have only few options to fasten the (relatively) heavy DC regulator.

This advantage however goes hand in hand with a series of disadvantages (with possibly even legal implications) of the AC regulator!

You cannot use a battery (hence no parking light)!
You cannot use side indicators (trafficators), unless you install an AC flasher unit, that equally has some (possible even legal) aspects to consider!
You cannot use a normal DC horn (AC-driven that would remain totally silent). You can use an AC horn, but that too has a few points to observe!
The AC regulator handles maximally only 70 Watts load, even if the dynamo would generate more!

	Important safety and operating information
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40.000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws, even those preinstalled. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the freshly installed system a chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or even worse, before you apply changes thought to be sensible by you without having seen the system run. Our parts have been checked before delivery. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (such as ignition coil, regulator and advance unit). You risk severe damage to the inner electronics there. You will not get any sensible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor, your spark plugs and spark plug sockets (even if completely new) might be the reason for malfunction. The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any malfunction in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully.
#	The spark of classic, points based ignition systems has with about 10.000 Volts only little energy and looks therefore yellow and bulky (hence well visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40.000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form and blue in colour, which makes it not so well visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated revolutions and not already by pressing the kicklever down with your hand (as you might do with battery based ignitions).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator, the ignition coil and the advance unit. As a rule, wiring will always be colour to colour. Instances, where colour changes between wires are expressly mentioned in our instructions.
#	When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. For transport never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables, never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!
#	Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.
#	Please do observe those remarks, but at the same time, be not afraid of installation. Remember, before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle