• check version (here for Lucas Magdyno)
• if a battery is used, it must be 12V and must be connected with its negative pole to ground (Never with the positive, even if the original system was!)
• if no battery is used you must use a smoothing condenser, otherwise light output will be less than normal

• It delivers 14.4V DC (the standard voltage for a 12V system) 
• The female threading at the main shaft differs to original and is NOT BSF, but metric M6 (screw supplied). 
• The keyways on the shaft have correct 1/8" width, but are for flat parallel and not halfmoon keys (which are supplied).
• the screw holes for the adapter plate are not standard fit, they are metric. The middle one is M5, the 4 bottom ones are M3. They are however in the original position and permit use of original adapter plate.

• the alternator itself with the fastening bolt
• fuse 6A and holder
• fastening bolt (M5 / 2BA), already fixed
• 2 x woodruff key 1/8 inch
• wide head screw M6 
• securing washer
  
• makeshift tool for assembly of the gear onto the shaft (large nut as pressure piece, screw M6, washer, nut M6)

You may use the stock back plate.

You might have to to enlarge the central hole a little (to 5mm).

We offer a replica back plate as an extra. This plate is already equipped with the seal.

Part number: 71 98 002 M

• Remove the dynamo from the magdyno as per relevant maintenance manual
• Remove existing 6V battery
• Rewire motorcycle for 12V negative ground configuration if it was originally positive earth.
• Reverse wires on back of amperemeter (if existing). You may keep the existing wiring but will have to remember that the meter will than show into the opposite direction as polarity has been reversed. The meter will give anyway less reading now, as the 12V system will carry only half the current of the 6 volt one with same load.
• Replace 6V bulbs with 12V bulbs of same wattage
• Clean dynamo mounting area and inspect for condition.
• The horn should work ok for short burst on the 12V system. If it sounds distorted it may need adjusting.

• Remove the sprocket from the stock dynamo as per relevant maintenance manual, clean, inspect it for possible damage and oil it.
• Remove the stock back plate from the Lucas Dynamo. Clean and check it.
• Place the back plate onto the new alternator. Should the stud there not pass through the plates opening, enlarge it slightly (5mm, the difference is very minimal). Attention: should you have removed the bolt, please observe that its shorter threaded end has M5 for the new alternator and the longer threaded end 2BA for the stock dynamo nut. Do not confuse those ends.
• Fit the plate with the 2 countersunk screws M3 to the new unit.

• Start by placing the 2 woodruff keys onto the shaft.

• Than press the gear onto the shaft as far as you are able to with your hands. Never use a hammer to bring it down.

• Place the supplied large nut as a pressure piece on top of it and screw the M6 fitted with the nut and the washer in.

• Than tighten the nut and the gear will slide down under its pressure.

• Hold the gear firmly whilst screwing with some cloth between hand and gear.

• The gear has to be pushed right up to the arresting recess on the  shaft.

• Depending on how far you have managed to push it on in the first place, you might have to use the shorter assembly screw if the longer one bottoms out before the gear sets fully down.

• Once the gear is fully down to the recess take screw and washer off again.

• Place the new lock washer on (bend its finger down a little before).

• Screw the wide head screw. Should its flattened side come to end on top of the small finger of the lock washer, take the screw out again, turn the lock washer by 180 degrees and screw again. Fasten the screw very carefully.

• Lift the edge of the lock washer that protrudes the flattened side of the wide screw with a small screw driver and bend it upwards to lock the screw.

• Remember the screw has to be prevented from accidentially getting loose during run.

Pull the unit with the dynamo screw against the magdyno and fasten it with the strap. 
Place the magdyno back onto the engine.

Unscrewing the rotor mounting plate could lead to severe damage and will void the warranty.

If you must know how it looks inside - here is a photo.

Wiring will depend very much on what motorcycle you are using the magdyno for. There are however a few generally valid points. Below a general wiring diagram of a typical (British) vintage  motorcycle with the new unit. You may enlarge this diagram by clicking onto it.

• lLighting voltage is output via the long red wire coming out of the unit. This carries 12V plus. Insert into this wire the supplied fuse. Minus is internally connected to the units housing which hence requires solid electric ground connection. This wire should be fed into the existing electric system via a 6 Amp fuse.
• If a battery is used in the system a switch should be provided to disconnect it to prevent any possible drain via the units diodes, during long periodes without use.

Having mentioned the internal resistance, there is no need for worry that your engine cannot pull it, or will suffer a loss of power. Your stock dynamo has the same resistance once it gets load, it runs only freely if there is no electric drain on it.

During operation the unit will warm up noticeably, especially at the alloy ends. This temperature may (with motorcycle not moving) climb up to 85°C (you should be careful when touching the hot unit). This heat will not damage the electronics and is actually not produced by the electronics or near them. The heat comes from the aluminium. Similar to a microwave oven, the strong magnetic field causes the alloy particles to rub against each other, heating themselves up.

The 2 holder screws are sealed. If you open them the seal will break and your warranty will be void.

If you suspect a defect in the unit, you must return it to Powerdynamo for inspection and (if needed) repair.