Powerdynamo für Yamaha Racer

IMPORTANT:	Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
	If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
	Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc. Never use anything other than a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires!
	If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz
Check packing and rotor!	The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Check packing and rotor!	Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result. Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.

	First, check that you have received all parts: statorring adapting plate rotor distance sleeve for rotor nut ignition coil/ht-cable puller-/mounting tool screws M5, washer

Take the old ignition system (including ignition coils) off. Take the woodruf key or arresting pin from the crankpin (so you have there). Please do not forget to do so, otherwise you will have trouble later on the assembly. (Remark: this woodruff key does not actually hold your rotor on the shaft, this is done by the cone. It simply guides to the correct setting which will now be otherwise achieved.)

	Place the adapting plate in that way onto the crank case, that the plate's cable opening shows in direction to the cable exit of the crank case. Screw down the plate by using the 3 hex-screws M5x12. Put the stator onto the adapter. The wire has to be in the adapter opening. Screw the stator down with the 3 hex screws M5, not forgetting a washer each.

	To be able to make use of the long holes to modify timing, set the screws into the middle position of those oblong holes.

	Set any of the 2 pistons into ignition position. (Any, as the system will fire both cylinders at the same time, which means you get a so called wasted spark, something not uncommon and effectively harmless.) Whilst the crank remains in ignition position, carefully place the rotor onto it, in such a way that the small red marking on the rotor aligns with the red line on the inside of the stator. Take care not to change the setted position of the crank during that operation.

	To help turning the rotor and to stabilize it during fastening, use the supplied tool as shown here in the picture. The rotor has 2 holes M6 for the arresting screws. (Photo shows a similar engine!)

	The same tool can be used to pull the rotor off again. If the crank pin does not reach over the rotor to get pressed off, use some spacer, best a larger steel ball. (Photo shows a similar engine!)

Screw the high tension wire into the wire outlet of the ignition coil. Than fasten the new ignition coil on the frame of the motorcycle. Than connect the 2 plugs from the stator wire to the coils terminals. Those plugs have different dimensions to prevent a mix up - which would be deadly to the coil The coil does not only contain the transformer, but electronics for the ignition (as does the stator ring). So never mix those wires up and never connect the coil to something else.
	ATTENTION: Voltage reversal will destroy the ignition coil!! The wider, 6,3mm pin shall connect to the red/white wire that brings the ignition voltage. The narrower, 4,2mm pin gets the impulse from the black wire. The red/white wire branches to a wire to be connected to the kill switch to cut off the system. Connect the steel core of the ignition coil to solid ground. Mere screw down to the frame is not enough!

Connect the parts as shown here:

This is very simple. The cable from the stator has 2 plugs in different sizes. The ignition coil has 2 suitable terminals. Put the plugs onto the suitable terminals. Confusing the plugs will destroy the coil!
The free end of the small sideways connected wire is the wire for the kill switch. When that is connected to ground, ignition will stop. Here you connect your OFF-switch which closes against ground when activated.

Screw the high tension cables into the ignition coil and place the rubber seals over the exits. It's more easier if you do that before mounting the coil. Please do use the cable arriving with the pack and not any old cables.

You will do yourself a favour to treat your bike to new spark plugs and spark plug sockets (preferably some between 0-2kOhm). Plenty of problems are to be traced back to "apparently good" (even completely "brand-new") sparks plugs, terminals and cables.

Do not use spark plugs with an intern suppression resistor. NGK (e.g.) offered such spark plugs coded with an "R" (for resistor). Further, please do not use any spark amplifying cable, such as "Nology supercables" or "hot wires". This will disturb the system and possibly damage it.

In our twin outlet coils both ends of the secondary go to spark plugs.

Typical resistance between both exits is 6.2kOhm. Both exists fire at the same time (as many twin systems do). Sparks will be polarised however at a 180 degrees difference which might manifest when you strobe it.

Ignition will only work correctly if both plug terminals are connected. You may not test one side with the other open (not sitting on the mounted spark plug). This is because (effectively) each exit uses ground from the other. That means also that both plugs are working in serial, adding resistances, so better use low resistance spark plug (resistor) sockets and make sure they are good (if in doubt, measure resistance on a hot socket (warm it up before measuring).

Is the flow from ground of one side via spark plug there, via coil, to the other spark plug and its ground interrupted you get no spark - on neither side. If you really want to test only one side, put the HT wire of the other to ground (earth it) than it will work.

Sometimes a coil deprived of its ground from the other side searches for a substitute - with some solid fireworks around it to the chassis.

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Please don't depend on the frame as the earth-connection. Varnish, oil and dirt prevent often a good contact!

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

Please note: The crankshaft speed needed to get the system sparking is with about 500 revs/min quite high. If you simply turn the rear wheel of your lifted vehicle to check spark, you will not get any.
You need fast kickstart action or better still push-starting the bike.

	Important safety and operating information for sports systems of type 71 00
	The material has been exclusively made for sports purposes and is NOT destined for use on public roads!
#	Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.
#	Ignition systems generate high tension! With our material right up to 40.000 Volts! This may, if handled carelessly, not only be painful, but outrightly dangerous. Please do keep a safe distance to the electrode of your spark plug and open high tension cables. Should you need to test spark firing, hold the spark plug socket securely with some well insulating material and push it firmly to solid ground of the engine block to earth the output.
#	After installation, please check tightness of all screws. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.
#	Give the freshly installed system the chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or even worse before you make changes thought to be sensible by you without having seen the system run. Our parts have been checked before delivery. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic components (both stator and ignition coil). You risk severe damag to the inner electronics there. You will not get any sensible results from the operation anyway. Bear in mind that also your carburettor and your spark plugs and spark plug sockets might be the reason for malfunction (even if absolutely new). The general experience with our systems is that the carburettor will have to be re-adjusted to lower settings. Should the system not start after assembly, first disconnect the blue cut-off wire directly at the ignition coil (or in some cases advance unit) to eliminate any mistake in the cut-off circuitry. Check ground connections carefully, better put an additional wire between engine block and metal frame of the ignition coil.
#	The shaft speed needed to start ignition is relatively high with about 500revs/min. Simply turning the lifted rear wheel will not produce a spark. You need rapid kickstarter movement or better still pushstart.
#	There are systems destined for clockwise and there are systems destined for anticlockwise run of the crankshaft. Confusing the 2 senses will mean you have no spark. You may check for what sense your system has been made by the colour of its wires. # a black/red wire: clockwise # a white/red wire: anticlockwise
#	The spark of classical, points based ignition systems has with about 10.000 Volts only little energy and looks therefore yellow and bulky (hence well visible). The spark from our system is a high energy spark with up to 40.000 Volts and therefore very sharp (needle thin focused) in form and blue in colour, which makes it not so well visible. Furthermore you get spark only at kickstart operated revolutions and not already by pressing the kicklever down with your hand (as you might do on classic systems).
#	Systems using a twin outlet ignition coils have a few percularities. Please observe that during tests on one side, the other has either to be connected to an fitted spark plug or securely earthed. Otherwise there will be no spark on either side.
#	Never do electric welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.
#	When connecting the ignition coil double check that you put the wires to the correct pins. (One is smaller). If you confuse them, the high tension for the condenser charge will kill the input switch
#	Do not use spark plug sockets with a resistance of more than 5kOhm. Better use 1 or 2kOhm ones. Bear in mind that spark plug sockets do age and thereby increase their internal resistance. Should an engine start up only when cold, a defective spark plug socket and/or spark plug is very probably the cause. In case of problems check high tension cables too. Never use carbon fibre HT-cables. Never use so called "hot wires", never use resistor spark plugs.
#	It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.
#	Please do observe those remarks, but at the same time, be not afraid of installation. Remember, before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system. *Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!*

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	Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light to your vintage motorcycle