Powerdynamo brings new ignition & light 
to your vintage motorcycle

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Assembly Instructions System 70 89 499 00

Version 22. 10. 2007

 


IMPORTANT:

Please read these instructions fully before starting work on your bike or any modification on the supplied system. Also, please note the remarks on the information page for this system.
If you have no expertise for the installation have it done by an expert or at a specialist's workshop. Improper installation may damage the new system and your motorcycle.
Before you order a system, please check against the section "you should have received those parts" whether all parts wanted are in the kit. You might want to order a puller tool, light bulbs, fuse, horn, flasher unit etc.
Never use anything other than  a puller tool M27x1.25 to pull the new rotor again. In case of damage to the rotor as a result of use of other (unsuitable) tools and facilities, the warranty claim expires! 

If you have access to the Internet, see those instructions online. You get larger and better pictures by clicking onto them and possibly updated information. System list at http://www.powerdynamo.biz

 


Check packing
and rotor!

The rotor is sensible to blows during transport. We therefore double pack the material (box inside box). Should the system have been despatched to you via a reseller and arrive not packed like this, please inform us.
Before assembly, please always check the magnets (try to push them aside with your fingers). After impact the glued in magnets might have broken loose, sticking to the rotor however by magnetic force, so that one does not notice right away. During run there would be considerable damage as a result.
Before putting the rotor to the engine, please make sure that its magnets have not collected metal objects such as small screws, nuts and washers. That equally would lead to severe damage.
To pull the old rotor, you will need a puller tool M8x90 (Teil Nr. 70 80 899 90).
To pull the new rotor again, you will need a puller tool M27x1,25 (part 99 99 799 00).

Note: never use a claw puller, a hammer or any other device, that will shake the magnets off.


You should have received those parts

  • stator plate with coils

  • rotor (flywheel)

  • rectifier/ regulator

  • fastening screws

  • wire binder and battery cables


Make sure your bike rests securely on her stand, preferably on an elevated work bench and that you have good access to the generator side of the engine. You will have to move the front wheel fork for good access.

Disconnect your battery and take it out of the motorcycle. Note, that you are about to install a 12 volt system which will require a 12 volt battery. You will further have to replace the ignition coil and all lightbulbs to 12 volt ones. The horn may stay at 6 volts. 


Take the generator cover from the motor and disconnect the cables of the generator. Normally that shall be:
  • a blue cable on pin 61
    (to the ignition control lamp)
  • a thick black cable on pin 30
    (to the positive pole of the battery)
  • a thick red cable on pin 51
    (to the negative pole of the battery)
  • a black cable on pin 15
    (to the ignition lock)
Pull all the cables out of the engine case, but don't cut off any cables yet.

Take the old dynamo off as per manufacturers instructions. 


Lead the stator harness from the inside through the cable hole at the motor.

Take care not to damage the stator coil during the process.


Then push the stator unit to the bottom of the generator opening. Screw it down with the 3 screws M6x20.

fasten the wire with the clamp so that it can not get into the way of the flywheel.

Pull the enclosed grommet over the cable and push it into the opening (a drop of oil will help).

Put the rotor onto the crank shaft and fasten it carefully with the screw M8x40. Please don't forget to use the washer.

As the stock dynamo is now no longere there, the condenser has lost its place

it should be possible to fit it as shown here, but the better way would be to fasten it next to the ignition coil on the frame.

Connect the parts as shown in wiring diagram g-only:

*

The new regulator/rectifier has a compact plug with 6 positions, of which one is not used (before November 2007 it were two). From November 2007 onwards a female plug cover fitting to this plug is delivered. Into this female plug you have to insert the following wires (which have terminals that snap into the plug):

*

The two black cables leading from the generator ...

... connect to pins 1/4 of the new regulator (from there equally black wires lead inside the unit). It does not matter which wire connects to which of the both terminals (1/4) as they carry alternating current.

* The new brown cable with the round eye terminal  ...

... connects pin 3 of the regulator unit (from there equally a brown wire goes inside the unit) with the negative pole of the battery or (in case you drive without battery) to ground (chassis).

*

The new red cable with the round eye terminal ...

Take care:
Wrong polarity will damage the electronics!

... connects to pin 5 of the new regulator (from there equally a red wire goes inside the unit). Here your regulated positive voltage comes out to connect to battery plus, or (in case you drive without battery) to the voltage input terminal of the main switch (ignition lock, German bikes: pin 51/30).

Make sure that you have a 8A-fuse between battery and vehicle circuitry.

*

The green/red wire at pin 6 of the new regulator ...

 

Remark:
Until November 2007 this wire has been a single wire outside the compact plug.

... is for the charge control light. You connect there the wire that formerly did run from the control light to the original regulator.

Sure that this control only functions with a battery present. Should you drive without battery but still connect the wire, you will see that the light glows even as the generator generates voltage. So without battery, do not connect it.

The charge light control function is based on a transistor switch and is an additional function. Even if that should fail, the regulator might still be in ok working condition. Simple check: have the engine running, turn lights on, disconnect the battery. If you have bright lights the unit is ok.
Remarks for 6 Volt systems:
  • There is no charge light control function in our 6 volts systems. Hence no green/red wire
  • The ground wire between plug and regulator body is not brown, but white.

*

Finally - and before installing the battery and before the first kickstart - please re-check carefully all connections and fitments against the wiring diagram. Do check battery and light bulbs for correct voltage (12V).

Should something not work, please consult our trouble-shooting guide on our homepage. As a first step disconnect the blue wire from the coil and re-test.

* IMPORTANT: During crank shaft repair the dynamo shaft is often machined and gets shorter. The result is a rotor sitting lower, possibly touching now with its rivets the stator coil. The result is a destroyed stator and ignition failure.
For more detail and how to check see (online) here.

 

Important safety and operating information for dynamo only systems

#

Safety first! Please observe the general health and safety regulations motor vehicle repair (MVR) as well as the safety information and obligations indicated by the manufacturer of your motorcycle.

#

After installation, please check tightness of all screws. If parts get loose during run, there will be inevitably damage to the material. We pre-assemble screws only loosely.

#

Give the freshly installed system the chance to work, before you start to check and test values, or even worse before you make changes thought to be sensible by you without having seen the system run.
Our parts have been checked before delivery. You will not be able to check much anyway. At any rate do refrain from measuring the electronic regulator. You risk several damages to the inner electronic there. You will not get any sensible results from the operation anyway.  Check ground connections carefully and, to be on the safe side and for testing, put an additional ground wire from the regulator directly to the engine block.

#

Never do electric welding on the bike without completely disconnecting all electronics.

#

Electronics are very sensitive to wrong polarity. After work on the system, do check correct polarity of the battery and the regulator. Wrong polarity creates short circuits and will destroy the regulator which is for negative earth only.

#

When you handle the new rotor, take care not to damage its magnets. Refrain from direct blows to the circumference of the rotor. For transport never put the rotor over the stator. Observe our information relative to transport of the material.

#

It is a good idea to cover the rotor in a thin layer of oil to reduce the risk of corrosion.

#

Never use a claw puller or a hammer to disengage the rotor. Its magnets might become loose in the event. We offer a special puller screw for disengaging the new rotor again (see assembly instruction)!

#

Should the motorcycle not be in use for some longer period, please disconnect the battery (so existing) to prevent current bleeding through the diodes of the regulator. Though, even a disconnected battery will empty itself after a while.

#

Please do observe those remarks, but at the same time, be not afraid of installation. Remember, before you, thousands of other customers have successfully installed the system.
Enjoy driving your bike with its new electric heart!